My Rhine and Dutch Canal cruise on AmaWaterways AmaStella continues with an early evening but overnight stop in Rüdesheim, Germany; the home of Georg Breuer, a renowned Riesling winemaker. His wine cellar was the venue for one of Goldring Travel’s Culinary & Cultural Wine Tasting events in 2014, so I was anxious to head back there for an intimate private wine tasting. But that had to wait until the next day.

Rather than dining onboard the AmaStella I decided to venture out and see what was available. Honestly, there wasn’t much, as this is off-season and most everyone is taking a break, getting ready for the Christmas Markets. However, after wandering the small area near the ship, we did find Breuer’s Ruedesheimer Schloss Wine Restaurant. And, fortunately, it specialized in George Breuer wines! It had an eclectic mix of live music, charming servers, and a very interesting menu. I started with a bottle of one of Georg Breuer’s best Rieslings, Berg Roseneck; a solid choice.

But then I made what I believe was a bad mistake. I ordered Handkäs‘ mit „Rheingauer Musik: Local cheese marinated in Riesling vinegar with apples, nuts, raisins, onions, bread, butter.  It looked delicious, but basically was stinky, close to rancid, cheese that really upset my stomach. Me…the guy with the iron stomach. It was humbling, but more importantly, made the rest of my dinner an effort in survival.  But, as I always say, I would rather try and be ill for a while than not try at all.

For main courses, and before it all went south, it was Für Feinschmecker: Liver of veal fried in sage butter with apples, onions and mashed potatoes, and Rheingauer Gebück: Fried sausage of regional game (venison), savoy cabbage and homemade mashed potatoes, mustard, along with a side of bread dumplings.  They were all delicious, but even for me at my best, more than one person could consume, no less enjoyably dine.

As the marinated cheese started to marinate my stomach, I had to take a few minutes to walk around outside, only to find the AmaStella Rüdesheim coffee tour was across the pathway. While I was invited in, I had to decline, as I had one waiting for me. It is basically coffee with a local brandy, chocolate, and heavy cream. It was delicious and certainly helped coat my stomach, so it was doubly appreciated.

It was quickly back to the ship, into bed, and feeling a bit better, time to sleep off the horrid cheese before my wine tasting in the morning!

It was a foggy morning wander to Georg Breuer for the private tasting. As our host was setting things up, she invited us to tour the cellar alone. There is something special about quietly wondering and observing without a guide, letting your interests lead you.

Out of the cellar for our tasting at a small table in the store, we played with their new rescue puppy before getting down to business. It was eight different wines interspersed with both technical and personal chats. Simply perfect.

Of course, I left with too much wine (drunk and in boxes), but knowing later in the day I would be arranging a wine tasting to go along with the cheeses that one of my clients had purchased. Originally, it was set up to be outside on the bow of AmaStella, as we sailed up the most beautiful part of the Rhine River, but the cold won out, and it was moved inside. AmaStella’s crew and chefs did a great job putting it all together for our group!

The beauty of the Rhine River Valley cannot be captured in photographs. It is the second time I have sailed through it (once in each direction), and it is what fairy tales are based upon; of course, forgetting the reason for the castles was anything but magical!

In the evening, we visited the charming, but dilapidated and being restored, Castle Lahneck. While it had a collection of items the owner had purchased along the way, the castle was truly in ruins when purchased, so none of the items were original to it. It was quirky, but alas, if someone is going to buy and live in an old castle, the person has to be a bit quirky too.

The next day was Cologne, Germany. I had been there before and, to be honest, I wasn’t really looking forward to any new revelations. But, boy, was I wrong!  We started with the included City Tour and the option to stay later, since AmaWaterways also provided shuttle buses. There was an option to spend the afternoon on tour in Düsseldorf, but I was told that there wasn’t a lot to see there, and, of course, you know I believe it is better to do one thing well rather than two things rushed and only superficially. That was most certainly the case this day!

The ship made a quick stop on its way to Dusseldorf to drop off those wanting to tour Cologne and then continued on, where we would eventually reboard the ship.  Our guide wasn’t the best, so after seeing the meeting point, it was time to peel off to independently wander the city. As with my visit there in 2014, the city is pleasant enough, but not captivating…so far. Eventually, I settled into a café called Frankhaus for the expected drinking of wine, eating some food, and people-watching.

Afterwards, the wandering continued and eventually came upon the National Socialism Documentation Center of the City of Cologne, which sounds rather mundane. However, the building is actually a museum about the Nazi occupation and its basement a former Gestapo prison!  How our guide didn’t mention it when we virtually walked right past it, I don’t understand, but she didn’t (and it wasn’t mentioned in 2014 either.) 

It was breathtaking, but in the darkest, most upsetting, way. Besides the cells and the courtyard where the Nazis hanged hundreds (if not more) Jews, there were many writings from the Jewish prisoners, most of whom obviously were killed.

One particular writing shook me not only by the picture it drew, but also by the almost emotionless tone:

“Sometimes we were 23, 24 people in the cell and then again six or seven. That came in waves. There we were in the cell with three, four or five – and suddenly the door opened – and a whole group came in. And on the following day the interrogations took place and the cell was empty again. Most of the people who were led away didn’t come back. They were gone. I didn’t see them again. We slept on the floor, sitting: I was the second or third. And then there was the next person sitting between my legs and then the next. That’s how we sat and that’s how we slept, too. Our heads leaning on the shoulder of the man in front of us.” (Hans Weinsheimer)

Hans was a 16-year-old boy, imprisoned in 1944, spending every day knowing that dozens of people were being killed right outside his overcrowded cell, hearing the screams of those being tortured, and not knowing if he would live the next hours…all because he was Jewish. 

I mentioned this horrific find to someone on the ship. He responded, “Oh, there was much worse.” Oh, the sheltered and ignorant life of privilege! And, oh, how so very offensive. Not to worry, though. I was told that he probably has more Jewish friends than I do. I mean, WTF. Maybe it makes clear that some people either deny the Holocaust or assert it wasn’t that bad? Maybe it is an excuse to turn a blind eye to the Neo-Nazi activities of today?

For some, travel in Germany is about beer and sausages. For others, it is about Christmas markets. And for others, it is about castles and fairy tales. But for us Jews, it is always about those wonderful things…and one more thing: Never Forget!

After Cologne but before that incident, I did walk about a mile along the Rhine River from the AmaStella’s berth in Dusseldorf to Carlsplatz, a sort of upscale semi-permanent food truck and market area, a great area to decompress with a glass of wine before wandering around the city where I had a Pretty Woman experience. I was walking to the Louis Vuitton store and the “bouncer” closed the door on me. “Mistake. Big Mistake!” lol Needless to say that even after they “graciously” did let me in, that LV store was not getting my money . 

As the wandering continued, I found a little restaurant that was all about meat. Of course, I had to sample some; a great way to conclude a very full day in so many ways.

Travel experiences are always a balance. What was repeatedly mentioned by guides and bartenders alike during my visit to Amsterdam speaks volumes.  But that is in the next article!

Next up: Amsterdam for days!