As this cross between an expedition and a cruise continues on Silversea’s Silver Endeavour, the one thing that stands out, aside from the truly excellent, friendly, and polished service and the beauty of the ship, is how relaxing and peaceful this journey has been. With a combination of relatively short and slow zodiac cruises, diverse and uncrowded, shore excursions, coupled with brilliant weather with sunshine and mild temperatures (mid-50s) Silversea is really putting on a show. (Remember: I only speak the truth!)

Our journey continued to St. Kilda, Scotland, and the interesting ancient and small village of Hirta, that really showed how hard life was on a small, remote island in the north. Tiny stone buildings with turf roofs, heated by peat and the cattle that were kept inside during the blustery winters and even smaller stone storage buildings for their food, it was not until the early 1900s that larger (but still small) “modern” buildings with pitched roofs took hold for the 180 or so inhabitants.

Equally interesting are the unique Soay Sheep that continue to live and thrive there. With it being lambing season, the little ones are pretty darn cute. By the way, Soay Sheep do not need to be sheared, for their coat sloughs off.

The afternoon zodiac cruise of Boreray Island, famous for its enormous Gannet (a seabird) population, was canceled due to a significant swell, but the ship did a “cruise by”, but it wasn’t the same.

And this brings to my mind one of the strong points of an expedition on Silversea versus some of the more “get out there” expedition companies. Silversea definitely knows its expedition guests and their demographic: well-traveled, financially secure, in their late 50s to late 80s (it’s true, with one guest having sailed 953 days with Silversea), and, for the most part, not only understanding their physical limitations but also accepting them as part of life. In other words, they have nothing to prove to anyone, including themselves.

By limiting zodiac rides to no more than 75 minutes, having hikes/walks that have one guide moving at a quicker pace and another taking it a bit slower (as well as longer and shorter hike options), folks aren’t pushed to their limit but are kept comfortable, thus raising the enjoyment level. In addition, Silversea is delivering a more “cruisey” experience with activities such as trivia, Name That Tune, and Bingo in addition to substantive history, nature, and science lectures. For me, personally, you know, I like a bit more zodiac and hiking time and less cruisey activities, but I also knew this sailing was a balance… and well-balanced it is!

After a morning zodiac ride in the Shiant Islands, Scotland by some beautiful bird cliffs with shags, oystercatchers, and more puffins (did you ever think seeing puffins up close would become mundane?),

It was off to Loch Ewe, Scotland and literally a “walk in the park” at Inverewe Garden, a testament not only to biodiversity from around the world, but how the Gulf Stream moderates the temperature so that plants from around the world can survive on this fairly remote northern British isle. It was definitely something I wasn’t expecting, but a couple of hours wandering the gardens was wonderful.

it was another zodiac ride, this time around some beautiful cliffs and caves of Tanera Beg, Summer Isles, Scotland followed by an afternoon at Handa Island.

My third visit to Lerwick, Shetland Islands, Scotland once again didn’t disappoint. There is a wonderful walk from the ship and around a good part of the island, which the ship offered park of.  (I opted not to join any of the ship tour options.)

By the time I returned to the ship it was 5.41 miles of joy…and my first real taste of “civilization” in about a week.

Alas, part of the joy was a new sign I saw: Lerwick Distillery. So, after I completed the loop, it was time to explore it. Lerwick Distillery is brand new. In fact, so new it hasn’t even begun operations. But when it starts distilling (hopefully this summer) it will be the northernmost Scottish whisky distillery. (That distinction is now held by Highland Park in Kirkwall, Orkney Islands…but that is another day!)

One of the owners, Elizabeth, enthusiastically showed me the small but pristine distillery, explaining how the wiring and plumbing should be completed soon and how they will start up a smaller gin distillery, so they have product to sell, along with some blends the master distiller has created at some other distilleries, such as Glenfiddich/Balvenie…which I had to sample. Yes, that’s right another whisky tasting!

It was then off to find the chippy (fish and chips shop) I enjoyed on my last visit. A shopkeeper advised that it has recently been sold, and the quality wasn’t the same. But there was a good chippy down by the water. Off I went but couldn’t find it, so I asked a local. He turned around without a word, pointed at a giant pink sign right behind me: “Da Harbour Chippy”. I shallowed my pride (which was not quite as embarrassing as walking though Iona in full expedition gear when the locals were wearing shirts and shorts) and walked in ordering a fantastic fish & chips, fried sausage and an Irn Bru (soft drink). A fellow guest mentioned the chippy had haggis, but they wouldn’t try it. Haggis! Yes, I went back in and ordered one. I wasn’t able to finish it all, but I was happy!

After walking off some of lunch, it was off to the local supermarket to but British candies for my children. Heck, they would have disowned me if I didn’t bring some back!

We definitely didn’t spend enough time in Lerwick, as departure was at 1:30 p.m., but I did pack enough in for the time we had.

Our next stop was Isle of Noss, Scotland but as I recall the zodiac cruise was aborted due to swell. I don’t think much was missed, to be honest. As late April is a transition month for most wildlife and plants, diversity is not at its height but definitely enough to keep things interesting. For example, a few folks who have enjoyed lots of kayaking did see a seal and a golden eagle  but not much has been said as to wildlife other than the same birds.  However, I have no complaints for we have seen some beautiful landscapes, truly interesting ancient sites, and enough wildlife to keep one engaged.

Next up: You guessed correctly. Another whisky tasting!