The expedition/cruise on Silversea’s Silver Endeavour has turned the corner, literally, heading to western Scotland with Kirkwall, Orkney Islands next eventually ended in Edinburgh, Scotland for a final Goldring Travel Culinary & Cultural Experience. And, of course, as the journey comes to an end, it is time for my Reflections.
Here are my articles to date:
- Goldring Travel’s April 2026 Culinary & Cultural Expedition: Dublin to Edinburgh on Silversea’s Silver Endeavour – Dublin & Irish Whiskey
- Goldring Travel’s April 2026 Culinary & Cultural Expedition: Dublin to Edinburgh on Silversea’s Silver Endeavour – Belfast, Islay, Lunga, Iona…and Scotch Whisky
- Goldring Travel’s April 2026 Culinary & Cultural Expedition: Dublin to Edinburgh on Silversea’s Silver Endeavour – Isle of Islay, St. Kilda, Shiant Islands, Loch Ewe, Summer Isles & Lerwick, Scotland
Before I get back to the expedition, I need to give props to Silversea for its handling of an unintended expedition: The Port of Leith was unexpectedly closed, and so our disembarkation won’t be there. (A large ship was stuck on the pier, blocking any other ships from sailing in or out of the port.) Silversea kept everyone well informed (possibly too informed!) and arranged dockage at the nearby Port of Rosyth along with complimentary shuttles to the Edinburgh airport, the Port of Leith, or the main station in Edinburgh proper, foregoing the previous charged-for transfers even though the distance was only 15 minutes more. That was a significant amount of coordination on short notice and expense, but Silversea makes things happen and usually pretty seamlessly. (I opted to arrange a private transfer to my hotel for $130, as I didn’t want to deal with buses, waiting, and then still needing to arrange transport from the drop-off in town to my hotel.) That arranged, back to the intended expedition!
Kirkwall was a great mix of experiences. First up was a hike along the Scottish coastline, visiting a beautiful gloup (a collapsed sea cave) before testing my fear of falling off a cliff’s edge. In my youth, I had no fear of heights (or should I say, falling off something high), but as I have aged, well, let’s just say I like to have a foot or more between me and the cliff’s edge. At least the day wasn’t windy. (I have, of late, read about too many people dying falling off of cliffs getting that Instagram moment both here at home and around the world. Why?) Regardless, I headed out before the group and enjoyed the peace and beauty, though the group eventually caught up.
After returning to the ship, it was a shuttle into Kirkwall proper for a walk around, some fish & chips, and a premium whisky tasting at Highland Park. The walk was pleasant, the fish & chips were disappointing (especially after the delicious one I had in Lerwick the day before), and the whisky tasting was great (though with 21, 25, and 30 Year Old single malts, it stopped short of my prior Highland Park experience, which included a 40- and 60-year-old.)
The next day was a sea day, the only one on this journey. It highlighted why the Observation Lounge should, in my opinion, be used for “observation” and the cruise ship events like trivia, bingo, etc. should be held in the Explorer Lounge. With the cruise stuff held elsewhere (I actually struggle with why they are held on an expedition ship) the Observation Lounge would be a place to quietly watch the world go by without hearing “B7. B7.”
But it also highlighted the Silversea Brunch which ran all morning and into the afternoon until 1:30 p.m., with the menu changing along with the hours. I kept my choices to small portions of Peking Duck, sushi, lobster, clams and mussels, and, well as always, the fresh homemade pasta.
I figured the sea day was good timing to experience La Dame, Silversea’s extra-cost fine-dining experience. But getting in wasn’t seamless because Silversea’s dining reservation system is seriously flawed in two easily corrected ways. First, guests can book as many nights as they want in Il Terrazzino, the Grill, and La Dame as soon as they become available online. Nothing is held in reserve for those who don’t jump online instantly or those who simply don’t go online at all. That forecloses everyone else from dining in either, unless there are cancellations once on board. Second, if you make a reservation at the less popular Grill, it forecloses you from being waitlisted at the more desired restaurants. This creates a nonsensical situation where you have to make a choice of no reservation or no waitlist. Huh? (In contrast, on another luxury line guests complain they can only make one reservation each at two of the specialty restaurants and have to wait until they are onboard to see if another is available. A better solution.)
Regardless, I did eventually get my reservation and it was worth the small upcharge! My prior experiences hadn’t been impressive, but I figured “Why not”? I was pleasantly surprised: the service was less stuffy, the menu was pared down with less courses and choices (it is an expedition ship), and everything was prepared well. In short, it was an enjoyable evening with a few laughs and good food.
My experience could have been flawed by the one service issue that I encountered during this journey. That’s right: Only one service issue For three days prior to my La Dame reservation (even before I had one), one of the sommeliers engaged in high-pressure sales pitches for me to purchase one of the premium bottles of wine. I politely deferred, eventually stating on the evening before, when he interrupted my dinner at Il Terrazzino, I probably would. Then, without my permission, he charged a bottle of Chateau de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape to my account! I immediately told him to reverse the charge. The next day, I spoke to the Hotel Director, who was beyond displeased and ordered the offending sommelier to his office, “Now!” I don’t think that will happen again.
As our last day started, it was clear to me that we would not be making the zodiac cruise to the bird cliffs of St. Abbs due to swell and wind. That left us with one last opportunity for a landing and hike at the Isle of May. The expedition team was going to do everything possible for our last expedition experience to happen, but there were issues with tides and slippery rocks, and wet stairs. The team was super-focused on assuring its clientele (overall, not the most athletic or nimble, but definitely willing) were safe and felt confident disembarking from the zodiacs. In contrast, more adventurous operators would have issued muck boots at the beginning of this expedition and said there would be a wet landings on stone beaches and steep hikes to start some. While Silversea’s approach took a good bit of time and shifting of landing sites, everyone made it safely…and that made it worth it.
It is also worth noting that while the expedition team did a solid job over the course of this trip, there was very little socializing with the guests other than quick conversations on shore, if you can catch one in the Expedition Lounge, or if you requested a dinner with one of them. (This was not a great “hang on the deck” wildlife spotting voyage, so that really wasn’t an option.) I know their jobs are tough and time-consuming, but with a number of other operators, the expedition team is out and about, regularly dining with the guests and available in the lounges.
The Isle of May is home to puffins in the grasses and kittiwakes and razorbills on the bird cliffs below, as well as three lighthouses. Due to the logistics of getting everyone on shore, the expedition team did not lead any hikes, but rather we were left to “free roam”, which you know I like better anyway.
While the puffin viewing was from a distance, it was clear that either hundreds of them near the path were either hiding in their burrows or had not yet arrived to breed. It was still a joy watching them.
As I started wandering the island on well-marked paths, with beautiful views, the constant cries of the kittiwakes, and very relaxed eider ducks (some sitting on eggs), I started to see people and thinking, “They aren’t one of us,” and then, “Where did they get those sandwiches?” and “Where did they come from?” Eventually, I had my answer: There was a tour boat on the other side of the island that brings people over for day trips. I wonder why we didn’t use that dock, but then I thought it might have been a long run from our assigned anchorage. Regardless, I was there, and it was a pleasant and easy last landing.
As my wander was finishing up, one of the expedition team said, “There is a grey seal on the rocks over there”. It was nice to round out my wildlife viewing with a beautiful seal looking right at me. (Didn’t I just write the other day about how only a few kayakers saw one? Patience and being “out there” usually pays off.)
Sadly, the next morning, I was forced to disembark with a few of the staff and expedition team, saying, “I thought you would be staying on for the next cruise.” Not nice! LOL. But with my transfer waiting it was off to The Caledonian Edinburgh for the night and one last Goldring Travel Culinary & Cultural Event.
I arrived at The Caledonian at about 9:30 a.m., again utilizing my American Express Platinum benefits of Fine Hotel and Resorts (upgrade upon arrival, breakfast, and $100 food and beverage credit) combined with the $300 semi-annual credit, so I had a great deal. But it got better, as my room had been upgraded but wasn’t yet available. The receptionist saw my Goldring Travel jacket and I said, “That’s me.” Next thing you know, I was upgraded to the Alexander Graham Bell Suite with a great view of Edinburgh Castle.
While it was tough to leave the suite, since I had been to Edinburgh a few times before, the concierge had recommended a walk along the river and eventually up to the Botanical Gardens; something I never knew existed and it was beautiful. (Although most of the flowers were not yet out, but I’m sure in three weeks it would be magic.) It was then a quick Uber to meet up with my clients at the highly rated Maker’s Gourmet Mash Bar.
Maker’s is famous for its authentic and also creative Scottish cuisine, with each dish including your choice of ten different types of mashed potatoes (classic butter, cheese, Scotch bonnet, horseradish, etc.). I couldn’t pre-reserve a table and fortunately arrived early, for I discovered Maker’s is sort of like Katz’s Delicatessen in New York. Before I knew it, the line forming behind me was all the way up the street! Fortunately, when the doors opened at noon, we were immediately seated.
Everyone ordered what they wanted (beef shoulder, spatchcock chicken, etc.), and I filled in the rest: Scotch egg, beef and lamb haggis, vegetarian (chestnut) haggis, and more. Stouts and ciders accompanied our meal.
People always make faces when they hear the word “haggis”. I explained that, when made well, it is delicious. My point was proven…and my Haggis with Black Pudding mashed potatoes was a hit. That’s right, the blood pudding was enjoyed too!
We finished up with sticky toffee pudding and Cranachan (basically whisky and cream whipped into thick deliciousness) and, of course, a Tobermory whisky!
After saying goodbye to my guests, it was a wander around Edinburgh, eventually winding up at…you guessed it: Scotch Bar at the Balmoral Hotel for a final tasting. I have to note that drinking Scotch whisky where it is born is a lot less expensive than at one of the bougiest hotels in Edinburgh! However, the barmen were absolute masters of whisky, claiming to know the specifics of all 500 whiskies they had on hand!
- Dalmore King Alexander III
- Ardmore 1985 41-Year Old (only 162 bottles made)
- Glenfiddich 21-Year Old (multi-casked)
And with that, it was time to head back to The Caledonian to enjoy the suite, have a bit of room service after that huge lunch, and in the morning, breakfast (which both the ambience and breakfast buffet were unfortunately definitely more Hilton), and then my typical flying home (which included a snow storm, a fight to reopen the gate to my last flight after sitting on the tarmac for an hour, the subsequent additional delay and, of course, lost luggage.)
Reflections:
I chose this sailing for a few reasons, but one was that it balanced more cruise ports (Dublin, Belfast, Lerwick, Kirkwall, and Edinburgh) with some out-island destinations one probably would never otherwise have the opportunity to visit (St. Kilda, for example, sees fewer visitors than the Antarctic). Another reason was because of culinary and cultural opportunities in Ireland, Northern Ireland, and Scotland, which, if you have followed along, have focused on truly local cuisine and whiskeys. And, last but not least, it was on Silversea, a cruise line that once was a target of my criticisms, but now, in my opinion, rises above most all of the luxury lines; especially what I call the more “classic” ones.
Silversea’s Silver Endeavour greeted me fresh out of drydock with a new paint job, new stabilizers (they worked incredibly well), new carpets throughout, and some new furnishings. She looks brand new and functions accordingly. She is a pretty ship and has so many little touches that place her alone as the most luxurious expedition ship at sea…and probably will be retaining the title until she retires many years from now. So if you want a real Silversea feel as you experience Antarctica, the Arctic, or the lands in between (like this expedition), this is the ship!
The service, with the one noted exception, was flawless. Each member recognized how to interact with each guest (most joking with me regularly) and delivered whatever they were to with an ease and friendliness that created a relaxed and warm atmosphere. (I do wish more of the guests recognized the staff as people rather than the deliverers of services, but fortunately, they were in the minority.)
On the “expedition” side of things, I truly enjoyed the relaxed, “You can let us know last minute if you want a different excursion or you want to go on Hike A or B.” Ironically, getting dining reservations was literally the only stress point…and then, it wasn’t like I wouldn’t have a nice option for dinner. (I am just not a fan of the main restaurant concept on any ship.)
The cuisine, at least for me, starts with the pasta. It is homemade onboard and featured accordingly. I’m going to miss it. The offerings, especially for an expedition ship, were quite diverse; essentially as if you were on a luxury cruise ship, with a few minor exceptions. And, yes, you can order caviar in your suite, the restaurants, or the Observation Lounge.
In summary, Silversea delivered in all aspects and made this one of the most relaxing cruise/expedition experiences I have had in quite a while. The Silver Endeavour looks and feels brand new with little tweaks that made the experience just that much more enjoyable. The staff and crew were near perfect; an especially impressive task since this was the first journey after a drydock – where new systems and equipment is installed and operational requirements change.
