It was time for Century Cruises to take us from Beijing to Xi’an; home to the Terracotta Warriors before heading to Chongqing and our three-night Yangtze River Cruise including the Three Gorges Dam.

We had a 1.5-hour flight on Air China, which was made easy with our luggage being transported ahead of us, so no heavy lifting.  My backpack, however, was a bit heavier as everything that has a battery, and even spare batteries, must travel in your carry-on bags. (While guns are no issue at all in China, it seems batteries and cigarette lighters are.) This presented a logistical problem for some in our group, which is noteworthy. China requires that all power banks have a “CCC” endorsement; otherwise, they are not permitted to be brought on an airplane. (I’m not sure how so many in our group didn’t honor that requirement, but Century Cruises did everything it could to have the non-compliant power banks forwarded to Shanghai, but they aren’t even permitted with postal or delivery services.) So, take note.

We arrived in Xi’an in time for a twelve or so variety dumpling dinner. Delicious!

This was followed by an entertaining show. (Normally, Century Cruises would spend two nights in Xi’an so that it would be offering the show as dinner theater one night and a dumpling dinner on the second.)

However, for me, those were not the best reasons to visit Xi’an; rather, it was a trip to see the Terracotta Warriors. This impressive semi-open-air museum is known for its long lines and crowded viewing area. But not for us!  Century Cruises’ connections really showed that our bus skipped all of the lines and arrived before the museum opened. We had about thirty minutes to view and appreciate the terracotta warriors and horses by ourselves. What an incredible experience and one that I truly appreciated.

After my last visit there, I did some research, including an excellent Netflix documentary, which explained the incredibly hard and dangerous life of the artisans who created each of the unique warriors and the fact that they were built to protect a single emperor in his afterlife…long after his death. As with The Great Wall, it is hard to comprehend how many thousands of people died creating this marvel and, unfortunately, how the magnificence of their work overshadows that.

Our time in Xi’an was incredibly short, for we needed to catch a high-speed train from Xi’an to Chongqing (China’s largest city, with about 35,000,000 people) to board the Century Voyage. The business class seats were comfortable, and the trip provided me with some much-needed downtime. You are welcome to bring food and drink onboard or purchase some snacks from a small shop. Unfortunately, no alcohol is served on the train, but beer is not considered “alcohol”. More unfortunately, the train ran out of beer. I didn’t buy any at the train station because I figured I’d get them onboard. Oh well.

We arrived on a rainy day and had a fairly short transfer to the ship for our three-night Three Gorges Cruise on the Yangtze River. Along the way, we received a briefing on Chongqing and how mountainous it is; so much so that there are virtually no bicycles, as opposed to Beijing, where they are everywhere. But the most interesting fact – disappointing to us – is that normally Century Cruises has a one-night hotel stay prior to boarding the ship. You know what you do on that day: Visit the zoo where there are 23 pandas, the second most in all of China. There is much more to see of this massive city as well. I guess I’ll have to come back!

I will be discussing Century Cruises’ Century Voyage ship in a separate article but will say here that it is a beautiful ship that is not quite an ocean cruise ship, but far more than a river cruise ship. Here are a few photos:

One thing everything from embarkation to our tours made clear: You must – and I mean “must” – be physically able to walk long distances, up steep stairs, down steep slopes, and across rudimentary piers. If you need a wheelchair or a cane or need to rest after a bit of a walk, you simply cannot take this journey; either the land or cruise portion. Added to these constraints, the lack of any ADA or safety requirements akin to those in the United States, it is a physically challenging travel experience.  That said, I think the best way to describe a Century Cruises’ experience is: Comfortably Exotic, as I will explain and discuss in another article.

After we boarded, the ship navigated through Chongqing late in the evening for a light show. China does know how to put them on…and I am looking forward to revisiting the one in Shanghai at the end of this trip.

The morning brought a misty, light rain. It was perfect for our tour of Fengdu, the Ghost City. Dating back 1,800 years, this complex is dedicated to the realm of the underworld. Some of it is original and restored, while other aspects have been added as recently as the 1980’s. I thought it would be a bit hokey, but it was a great morning. (I also appreciated that Century Cruises had the tour be just long enough and not lengthened just to fill a full morning.)

After an afternoon of ship tours, orientation, and presentations, the ship traveled overnight down to the beginning of the first of three gorges: Qutang Gorge. We were given the option of a visit to the White Emperor City or a trip to the Summit of the Three Gorges. As a view from the mountain top would have been cool (and from photos I saw, it was), I figured it was more important to visit the cultural venue, so it was off on a long walk crossing a pedestrian bridge, to a steep 350-step climb, up to the White Emperor City.  (Before the Three Gorges Dam was built, the walk would have been 1,000 steps, and the tranquil waters of the Yangtze River surrounding the former peninsula, but now island, were known for their rapids and many deaths.)

The city is also known for being a refuge for poets and scholars, especially Li Bai (whose name is repeated many times as his works have been memorized by Chinese children for centuries). Our guide was charming and recited a few of his poems, which I enjoyed. When she dove deeper, I wandered the area nearby and just took in the beauty.

As we returned to the ship, the sun came out, and boy did the Three Gorges put on a show. But first, I had a Szechuan Hot Pot for lunch; a special venue on the ship. You have a choice of a spicy (you know I had that) or mild (beef or rice congee based). Three towers and a vegetable salad are offered, one at a time: Seafood, Meat, and Offal. Great options, service, and deliciousness.

before dessert (and I wanted something to quiet my palate a bit) we entered the first gorge: Qutang Gorge.  It is impressive and a definite “Put the Camera Down” experience. Century Voyage provided a nice commentary, but it was definitely longer in Chinese than English. But then again, Chinese tend to want to hear every fact, while Westerners tend to just get the highlights.

It was then back to the Hot Pot for dessert. I have to note that the staff was so friendly and accommodating, keeping our table ready for our return about a half-hour later.

After that big, spicy lunch and breathtaking views, it was time for a nap…but not too long of one because the second gorge, Wu Gorge, was fast…well, nothing is really fast on the Yangtze River…approaching.

It was spectacular with WOW moments on both sides of the ship.  It was curious that while the top deck was filled with guests for the first gorge, it was near empty for the second…and that is the one not to miss.

As we came nearer to the end of the Wu Gorge, we docked so that we could take small, old boats up the Goddess Stream, one of the tributaries and a smaller gorge with nearly vertical cliffs.

Our guide was wonderful, giving us some insight into her culture and her more rural life; gently emphasizing that her area has a distinct and ancient culture, including the continued practice of giving a dowry (usually consisting of furniture for the bride’s parents).

Another interesting discussion was about the men who would pull ships through the gorge by hanging onto the sheer cliff face and pulling ropes, noting that they would be almost naked because clothing would weigh them down and make them cold. It was another reminder of the harsh life of those who lived in service to others.

The pier and gangway standards on this cruise are, at best, poor; consisting of cast away scaffolding, abandoned barges, etc. I cannot understand how China can literally build a city for millions of people in five years will not invest enough to upgrade these facilities to sort of modern standard. And, without question, this the Goddess Stream docks were the worst in every possible way. Worth it? Yes. But ya gotta know what it is.

It was then back to the ship and a Special Farewell Barbecue on the exclusive Princess Sissi deck and lounge (the VIP area). It was incredibly well done and a very special evening just for us. And, what a last night on our Yangtze River Cruise.

The ship arrived in Yichang, China – home to the Three Gorges Dam – early the next morning. Due to scheduling issues, our last day was a long one. While the other guests disembarked, we were able to stay on the ship until 12:30 PM, with Century Cruises keeping the VIP buffet open for us throughout, changing from breakfast to lunch at 11:00 a.m. I am honestly not sure how much of a difference there is, other than fried eggs being available, as the offerings are so plentiful, diverse, and a combination of various Chinese cuisines with some Western as well.

Next up: Three Gorges Dam, Yichang, and Shanghai