My expedition on Antarctia21’s Magellan Explorer feels like it just getting started, but also like it is just about to end. It gives me the feeling that something is better than nothing while also wanting something more. Neil deGrasse Tyson’s book, Astrophysics for People in a Hurry, keeps popping into my head. You kind of get a feel for the topic, but not an in-depth understanding you actually want.
On the other hand, there are two multigenerational groups and two other families who have to navigate taking children out of school or college coupled with the economics of longer expeditions. (OK, one is a horrible, racist, American travel agent and one Chinese travel agent who was terrible to the staff and crew, but let’s not get sidetracked.) And, of course, there are those folks who either didn’t think they would like Antarctica that much (the “Seventh Continent” folks) and those that just don’t have that much time or money. For example, a person with a high-pressure job who needs to find a way to both spend time with their child and provide a meaningful, yet fun, experience. In short (pun intended), there is a definite demand for abbreviated Antarctic expeditions.
I have to imagine the expedition team finds it difficult because there is just not enough time to establish relationships with the guests so there is more of a kind talking at folks than a real engagement. Less “Remember what we saw a few days ago and how this relates to this” and more “Here is the basic information.” Try repeating that every five days! That said, they all do a solid job and are as friendly as time permits.
The staff is also very kind, and you can see that they care in their eyes. I have had more personal interaction than most as, while most guests are quite friendly, they are in a rush to have their personal experience, which causes the taking of moments to interact with the staff to be limited. Whether the folks at Reception, the Restaurant, or the Bar, a warm “Sir Eric” and my taking a moment to chat, mattered. Again, it has to be hard starting over every five days. But they delivered.
I do want to mention the cuisine. It is OK and most is freshly made and done fairly well. The menus for lunch and dinner are fairly diverse. I did see the chef speaking with guests that had special needs…and a couple that seemed to think they were at a land-based restaurant demanding very specific “requirements” (You know “that” travel agent I mentioned above), yet the chef did everything possible to placate them. At breakfast, the only fresh fruit was melon. Frozen berries and canned fruit were always present. It did cause me to revert to my childhood love for canned pineapple rings and fruit cocktail on occasion, though I did mix them with granola and yogurt.
The 24-hour coffee station was one of the best I have seen, with the machine able to pump out a wide variety of coffee drinks, hot chocolate, mochaccinos, and more. A good variety of teas was also always available. (A suggestion is that they shut the machine off during lectures as it is loud and disruptive.) But nobody really goes to Antarctica for coffee or meals, so let’s get to the good stuff!
Our third full day “on the ice” started off with a cold, windy, zodiac ride over to Damoy Point where two historic huts and some Gentoo penguins were located in a fairly small area. I’m not gunna lie, I took the morning off as I hadn’t slept well and having visited there before, it didn’t really offer me anything to get me excited. (The conditions made it such that finding other birds, whales or seals wasn’t going to happen.)
With a large stormfront around us, it wasn’t clear what the afternoon would bring us. Using the Antarctica21 app, which has a live mapping function, I could see that we actually were making a big circle and were heading right back to Paradise Bay, where we were yesterday. Interesting! And then the announcement: We were going to visit the Chilean “research” base, Gonzalez Videla; a place nobody has really been able to visit since Covid-19. Possibly Antarctia21’s Chilean roots and Chilean expedition team members helped? (I did have to remind the expedition leader that there was a small gift shop there, so she should check if it was open and remind guests to bring cash. It was.)
What this most afforded me was the ability to do what has been forbidden for the past few years due to bird flu: Walk among the penguins, get your lungs filled with the smell of penguin guano, and basically just get more in touch with, rather than looking at, nature.
Upon arrival, I asked if Lucy, the leucitic penguin, was still there. (Leucitic means the animal lacks melanin which gives it color, but is not albino). While Lucy was reportedly at Brown Station, one of her probable relatives – a leucistic Gentoo penguin chick – had recently hatched. So cute. While she seemed to thrive, she was markedly smaller than her nestmate, so I hope she makes it.
I was invited into the living area of the station wondering if the same beat-up old lounge chairs were still there. Yup! Not exactly living in the lap of luxury, but I would love the opportunity to spend a season there.
I did see something new: Snowy Sheathbill chicks. I think they win as the ugliest birds on the planet, and I have seen some ugly birds!
Overall, our visit was a great surprise and one that made everyone, including me, leave with smiles.
It was hard to believe that was to be our last landing, with a scheduled departure to cross back across Bransfield Strait. However, with that storm out there, Magellan Explorer delayed her crossing until late the next morning, after a zodiac cruise in Hill Bay, followed by the delayed Polar Plunge. What can I say? “Well played!”
I awoke to a beautiful Antarctic sunrise that led to brilliant blue skies that lit up the mountains (Hill Bay is a misnomer) and brash ice. Humpback whales fed just off the ship and as we got closer to our anchorage (BTW, Magellan Explorer does not have dynamic positioning), the wind stopped and the waters calmed. The conditions were perfect. I could feel the joy in my fellow zodiac mates…and that was before more humpbacks appeared as did a large flock of Southern Fulmars (birds). Did I mention the beautiful ice?
After the obligatory (and seemingly always delayed) Polar Plunge, it was time for a game, “How Well Do You Know Your Expedition Team?”. While it was quirky and fun, I think – especially when on a short expedition like this – using it as an icebreaker and a way to meet the team would be better.
After the game, an announcement was again made (I think it was the third one), that if you are subject to seasickness, it was time to take your medicine because crossing the Bransfield Strait was going to be rough. I took a look at the Windy app and I didn’t see it being bad at all. In fact, it looked pretty good to me. And truth-be-told it was fine with only some rocking, but nothing of note; so much so that the dining room was full.
As we sailed away, a fur seal appeared and made the beginning of the sailaway just a bit bittersweet.
After dinner, before the Expedition Review video, it was announced that things looked good for our morning departure flight. Just like our arrival, it seems to be part of the plan to delay information about any flight issues until after dinner. There is probably some wisdom in that!
Our last morning was a 6:45 a.m. wake-up, out of the staterooms by 7:00 a.m. along with our luggage, breakfast until 8:00 a.m., sit around the public areas until 9:30 a.m. (I streamed a movie on the Antarctia21 app), then onto the zodiacs for a final time, arriving back at King George Island to await our Flying Penguin, for about 1.5 hours, taking off at 11:50 a.m. and arriving back in Punta Arenas at 2:00 p.m.
Upon arrival, the Antarctica21 team met us, and guided us to a bus, and then back to the Cabo de Hornos Hotel, where we were pre-checked in. This time I am staying in Tower Two, which is newer and much nicer than my room when I first arrived. On a message board was a list of times for the morning transfers back to the airport for our independently arranged onward flights. Note: We are not provided lunch or dinner in the evening, but there is an included breakfast in the morning.
After settling in, I headed over to Magallania Gourmet, a small restaurant located over the Mercado. I ran into a lovely mother and young daughter, and they invited me to join them. While it was charming and fun, it reminded me why such a short trip makes these encounters a bit more difficult. Anyway, you know me, King Crab salad, King Crab and Cheese Empandas, a delicious Seafood Soup, and a Blueberry & Merangue dessert.
It was a delightful way to bring this Anarctica21 expedition to an end. (Now, for tomorrow’s flights to be on time!)
Overall, this Antarctica21 experience was very good, but for me, it was just too short. That said, next up: Reflections.
