My journey through the Bordeaux region of France on Scenic Diamond continued at its very relaxed pace with a 9:45 AM start to a tour of a chateau in Saint-Émilion. There were three tour options: A visit to a sturgeon farm, a visit to an artisan flour mill, and the chateau visit for a wine tasting. Honestly, I felt a bit obligated to go on the chateau visit to see how Scenic sets them up and, of course, why would I miss an opportunity to drink wine in the morning?
With the late start and many of the guests already off the ship for their sturgeon farm and flour mill tours, I took a walk around the Scenic Diamond. Being a river cruise ship, the facilities are fairly limited because why you are on a river cruise is far less about the ship and more about where you are visiting. And, in Bordeaux, with all of the overnight stays, at least for me, it really makes the ship, while important, secondary.
After touring the ship (see below), it was time for my chateau tour. After a short scenic (no pun intended) tour of beautiful vineyards, we arrived at Chateau Fleur Cardinale. While most of the Scenic guests loved the experience, having been to a number of Bordeaux chateaus (in the United States, they are simply called vineyards), including the iconic Chateau Margaux and Chateau Lynch-Bage during a previous Goldring Travel Culinary & Cultural Journey, it was a bit disappointing. (They sure poured a lot of money into making the chateau into a tour and special events venue, which, considering the precipitous drop in wine drinking and sales, probably makes a lot of sense!)
Guests loved the flour mill tour (where they made supplied dough into bread creations) and the sturgeon tour (where they picked sturgeon up in a pond and ate caviar…not at the same time!), so I think they did better than me; although new to wine and Bordeaux guests loved my tour too. Note: As a former marine biologist, I found the “grab a sturgeon by the tail and pick it up” activity to be an inappropriate stressor and abusive on the fish. Just because the farm says it isn’t doesn’t make it so. It just makes money for the farm.
Back onboard, it was time to sail to Blaye, France for another overnight. It was my turn (along with the other travel agents) to have dinner in L’Amour, a seven-course affair. It started with a creative foie gras crème brulee, a choice of a truffled steak or vegetarian puff pastry, and ended, of course, with a cheese plate, with champagne, a Chablis, and a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (all acceptable, but not outstanding, wines).
Nicely done, but as I mentioned, I think it would have felt more special with linens and, of course, better wines. (With the cost of excellent wines so inexpensive here, “putting on the show” – even if most guests might not appreciate the difference – would be easy.)
After dinner, I took a walk around Blaye, France, which didn’t take long. The highlight of the village is a citadel built by Louis XIV but which was never attacked. As for the rest of the town, I saw one open restaurant and not much else. Why were we here? In the morning, I found out! I decided to skip the tour of the citadel and do some work before wandering it on my own. (I am not a fan of walking for two hours listening to historical facts I won’t remember. I know many love that, but it just isn’t me.)
When I disembarked the ship after the tours left, still not sure if it is why the ship overnighted there, I almost immediately became very happy! There was a nice but smaller farmer’s market. But first, I wandered the citadel, which I discovered had many cafés and shops. I am not sure if they were open the night before (the lack of cars makes me think not), but it would have been nice if we were told they were there, independent of the tours, if that was more your thing. Guests said the tour of the citadel was either “outstanding”, “very interesting”, or “torture”. (I think you know where I would be.) It was a nice wander that I would recommend, but unless you are into more of the history, which calls for the tour.
It was then time to hit the farmer’s market. It didn’t take long to find a cheese shop. Of course, he spoke no English, and I know no relevant French beyond “fromage”, but we managed. After a few samples, I bought two local artisanal cheeses. And then he said, “Plastic bag?” Ha!
At that point, I had Jimmy Buffett’s song, “He Went to Paris,” and its lyrics “French wine and cheeses” playing in my head. As it is a story so relatable for me, of an angry young man who, as he matures, lives his life through magic and tragic episodes, but winds up peacefully living a quiet life, it is actually one of my favorite songs. So, getting into that mindset was easy. I was now on a bit of a mission to live just a bit of its (my) story.
I came upon a sausage purveyor where I purchased probably the best foie gras pate (with chanterelles) I have ever enjoyed. Then I saw a boulangerie but figured the bread was too large to carry around, so I would visit it later. Then there was a wine stand where I had a tasting of local Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux wines. I picked up a bottle. (See where I am going?). I wandered back to the boulangerie only to find he was almost sold out and the bread I wanted was gone. I “settled” for a fig-infused bread, which was actually perfect for my foie gras, though a softer texture than I was dreaming of.
The ingredients were at hand, and it was time to return to the Scenic Diamond for a very French lunch. I set myself up at a table on the bow and, well, “magic”!
That evening Scenic offered a “Scenic Enrich” event, as it does once per cruise. On the Scenic Diamond’s Bordeaux journeys, it is a Classical Concert at Château d’Agassac.
After a short bus ride through the vineyards and small, a bit more modern, villages, we arrived at a beautiful, picture-perfect chateau which has been impressively renovated (rather than restored), where we were offered its Cru Bourgeois red wine or a sparkling wine. It was not one of its best wines, but as you can see from my picture, it did serve its purpose.
After half an hour (and a couple of glasses of wine), it was time for the concert. While I went in dreading it, it was actually quite good, and the quartet, especially the cellist, showed emotion and were having fun. It made things so much more enjoyable. I do have to mention that they did play the theme music from Schindler’s List, which took me back for a moment, but I found it to be very appropriate, acknowledging the Nazi invasion of, and impact on, this area.
Where we docked for the night wasn’t great for wandering out, and we did return to the ship rather late, so I stayed in.
It is about time I discuss the Scenic Diamond herself. She has a very expansive Sun Deck (no elevator access) with a wide variety of seating and lounging areas (probably enough seating for three seats for every guest),
as well as a hot tub just forward of the bridge (which I find a strange location, as – while I don’t expect privacy – having the crew looking down at me seems weird). The entire deck is covered in thick astroturf (does using that term make me old?), including the walking track. It is comfortable, reduces hot decks, and quiets any noise being transmitted down to the Deck 3 suites.
Deck 3 is all suites, though the deck plan shows public areas forward.
The public areas are (as on most river ships) actually halfway between Deck 3 and Deck 2. Other than Reception (which also has a very small display of a few gift items and logo-wear), there is one large room which is divided into three areas: Lounge, River Café and L’Amour Restaurant (which is separated, when in use, by sliding glass doors). Forward of this is an al fresco dining area overlooking the bow.
When I first boarded, having read about two restaurants on Deck 3, I was a bit confused. But then I figured out that River Café is really just an area forward on the starboard side that serves a variety of snacks and light meals throughout the day; something not as robustly available on most river ships.
There is a dedicated dining area next to the River Café area set up for dining, but it is also used for card games, etc.
L’Amour exists only in the evenings for a more upscale dining experience that everyone enjoys once per sailing; otherwise, it is available for dining, working on laptops, etc.
Deck 2 is all suites and Deck 1 is divided into two distinct areas separated by the stairs that run forward of midship (which is, again, fairly standard).
One is the Crystal Dining Room, which, again, is confusingly marketed as three distinct venues, including Scenic Culinaire (where cooking demonstrations – no classes – are held, but is also the omelet for breakfast and pasta for lunch station) and Table La Rive, where the upper suite guests dine (but is really just a table forward of the rest of the dining areas).
There is a combination of buffet (breakfast), buffet and seated menu (lunch), and seated menu (dinner).
Note: (I know I am repeating myself, but I think it is worth it.) Scenic Diamond has eliminated the use of tablecloths, claiming it is to be more environmentally friendly. However, no matter how many times I hang my bath towel to reuse it, I am given fresh towels. Don’t get me wrong, I love the touch, but those towels use a lot more water and energy to clean than tablecloths do. I figure it has more to do with the sleek aesthetic the owner prefers, having them awkwardly on some tables and not others, and/or the efficiency of not having them. Personally, I would like to see them when dining at L’Amour and Table La Rive.
Deck 1 has staterooms with high windows (which I never recommend unless you have budgetary constraints), as well as the decent-sized Fitness Center, a Massage Room, and a Salt Room (which is a unique offering on a river cruise).
Having now been onboard for a few days, I must say, even with the heat of summer, this has been one of the most relaxing, yet fulfilling, journeys I have ever been on. Amazing and diverse French wines. Delicious French cuisine. Country French and historical architecture. Spectacular landscapes. And, of course, lazy times “rollin’ down the river”.
Next up: The Left Bank and more Bordeaux!
