Our time on Explora Journeys Explora I and the Goldring Travel 2024 Culinary & Cultural Journey continued, now focused on some lesser-known Greek ports. First up was Volos, Greece. What? You’ve never heard of it? Isn’t that the point?
One of the quandaries of selling unique destinations is that most folks haven’t heard of them and are hesitant to invest their vacation time and money in them when there are other known places they haven’t yet visited. As a well-traveled advisor, it can be a bit frustrating but also understandable. My suggestion is pretty simple: With so many known places being the victim of over-tourism, the actual safer bet is trusting high-quality cruise lines (such as Explora Journeys) and tour operators that have vetted these small ports coupled with the advice of a well-traveled and highly qualified advisor (such as Goldring Travel!)
My experience in Volos, Greece was, honestly, full of surprises and ultimately became a wonderfully unique and fun experience. It all starts with a simple concept: “You must read the full tour description”.
I saw Truffle Hunting and thought, “Cool. That’ll be a half day and I’ll explore in the afternoon.” Well, just after I sat down on the bus and the 19 other guests, the wonderful guide said, “I will be with you for the next eight and a half hours.” What?! Huh?! If you know me, bus tours are just not a thing for me and I was trapped.
What was I to do? Our guide’s shocking announcement was followed by “It is about two hours to arrive at the truffle hunting location. We will, however, stop after about 45 minutes for a twenty-minute break.” I had a chance to improvise…and so I did. At the rest stop I purchased some ouzo, water, and KFC chicken-flavored potato chips. Trust me on this: Ouzo goes better with KFC-flavored chips on an eight-hour bus ride than one might think.
An hour and a half later we arrived at a field where we were met by two men and a scruffy-looking little dog. I wrongly thought that was a puppy. Nope, that was our truffle hunter. As we casually wandered I looked back at the bigger man who was hanging behind and said, “You plant the truffles don’t you?” With a big smile, he admitted it and further said the dog knows where they are because we always put them in the same places. Fortunately, this “show” only lasted about fifteen minutes.
It was then off to a site with a large very cool-looking pan, a table with all sorts of products for sale displayed and picnic tables with various sorts of pickled mushrooms to sample. I also noticed a display of wines. My new friend, however, noticed and pulled me over to a cooler saying, “I have better wine for you!”
As this was happening an older woman started cooking in that pan. Adding pasta, stock, mushrooms, and a very generous amount of truffles. While it was cooking and I was waiting for the wine to be served, I jokingly asked our guide if she had any ouzo hidden anywhere. She immediately called to our bus driver to get a bottle for me, he did…and well things were looking up!
Oh, then the wine was served as was the pasta. Despite my well-earned skepticism, the pasta was delicious!
And as we were leaving for the Museum of Mushrooms (yes, it is a real place), the big guy brought over a second bottle of wine for me – as sort of a parting gift – advising that using a twisted napkin to keep it from spilling was better than using the cork. (He was right and I shall use that technique in the future!)
After a visit to the Museum of Mushrooms – which also houses an excellent wildlife collection – it was off to see monasteries. Churches? If there is one thing I dislike equally to bus tours is visiting more churches! I was thinking, “How could I have been so stupid as to not read the full tour description?” But I was in for a real surprise!
You see, we weren’t visiting the monasteries themselves but the spectacular mountains they sat upon. Breathtakingly beautiful and, honestly, worth the bus ride; especially when combined with the truffle pasta…and ouzo!
The next day was Skopelos, Greece…and a boat tour that I did actually read the description for. It was a lovely one-hour cruise on a small boat akin to a small gulet. Our first stop was a lovely little mountaintop village with charming views…and a little cafe for some ouzo and a Greek salad.
It was then off to a beach club where we were to have 45 minutes to swim and relax and 45 minutes for a nice lunch with beer and wine. Well, we were definitely on Greek Time as lunch wasn’t really started for about one and half hours (more beach time!) and then the service was, shall I say, “leisurely”. I didn’t care because the place was relaxing, the water was refreshing, and eventually, the beverages flowed. (They flowed a bit too much for our guide, as he slowly became – what is the technical term? – Hammered! It was great entertainment and, well, he wasn’t driving the boat. Opa!)
After lunch, it was back on the boat, but it was hot with no breeze. It was one of those times when the breeze from the boat offset the opposite breeze from nature, resulting in a dead calm in 100-degree heat and a huge desire to just get back to Explora I. (It also made me think of the ancient Greek sailors suffering on these waters with no thought of having the relief of air conditioning.)
Our last port of call before disembarking in Istanbul, Turkey was Thessaloniki; the second largest city in Greece. There was an interesting food tour offered by Explora I, but I heard there was a great foodie place and I was needing to create my own. So after a wander along the waterfront it was off to Kapani Market; your typical market, but also an interesting mix of food, clothing, and souvenirs.
One small restaurant caught my eye because there were two groups of Greek men having very important discussions about nothing. And if Caffe Molinari was good enough for them, it would be amazing for me…and it was!
I ordered a bottle of retsina wine, which has a pine resin aspect to it. It is a wine that, curiously, doesn’t taste particularly good without food, but is quite nice with it. Even something as humble as a bit of bread changes its character.
As you know, I generally am not a fan of ordering the “platter”, seafood or otherwise. However, I just had a good feeling about this little place, so I ordered the Meze Platter with four dishes. As I watched the cooking through a passthrough I could see the care and intensity in the chef’s eyes. Waiting was tough, but well worth it.
What was delivered wasn’t a platter, but four absolutely delicious dishes consisting of whipped feta with honey and lemon, warm hummus, marinated anchovies, and grilled eggplant with feta.
I then continued my wander back to the ship. But that unfortunately wasn’t my last wander.
Thessaloniki is a relatively new port and not one that regularly handles cruise ships. Because of it being our last port in the European Union, all VAT refund paperwork had to be validated by Customs. Explora I attempted to have a customs agent come onboard, but was unable to. So I had to find him and
that was quite an ordeal. Long story short, I eventually did and he was about
as uncooperative as he could be. But eventually, he stamped my papers. (Note: Global Blue has an issue with how he endorsed them, so that remains an issue.)
That evening was caviar and room service in the suite followed by the last day on Explora I being a sea day and, unfortunately, full work day for me. Why? Because I had three days in Istanbul, Turkey coming up and finding time to work in such an amazing city wasn’t going to happen.
As I was staying in a Cove Residence I was entitled to a complimentary transfer to a hotel or the airport. You select the time and are told not to disembark early or late as your driver will be waiting. It was all quite seamless and brought to an end an incredibly successful 2024 Goldring Travel Culinary & Cultural Journey and re-experiencing Explora Journeys’ Explora I after a year in service.
Next up: Istanbul, Turkey and Reflections!