In an effort to push the Goldring Travel belief in “Being Comfortable Being Uncomfortable”, the Goldring Travel 2025 Culinary & Cultural Journey incorporates two significantly different but related experiences: A 7-night Botswana Safari and a 19-night Silversea Expedition sailing up the West Coast of Africa. Oh, and doing it so it combines a luxury experience without sanitizing what I consider to be “the good stuff”!
The Botswana safari was for seven of us, starting in Johannesburg, South Africa, overnighting at the Intercontinental O.R. Tambo Airport Hotel before our morning flight to Kasane, Botswana, and ending in Cape Town at the One & Only Cape Town with a full day tour before heading to the Silversea Silver Wind for the expedition.
I arranged for Abercrombie & Kent to meet my clients at their international arrival gates for VIP escorts past the Immigration lines and then to the Intercontinental for a restful night before our morning flight to Kahane, Botswana. Of course, while the transfers went flawlessly and the hotel was surprisingly wonderful (more on that in a minute), one of my guests pushed to visit Johannesburg proper, which is notorious for petty crimes and much worse. Fortunately, between myself, the VIP escort, and the hotel, it was unanimous that heading out into Johannesburg was a bad idea…which is sad, but alas my guest was safe.
I usually am disappointed by airport hotels, and, to be honest, with Johannesburg’s reputation, my expectations for the Intercontinental were not high. However, the hotel was wonderful. My junior suite was anything but junior. More importantly, the staff was excellent, and my dinner was even better. My charming waiter offered great advice on the menu and I, of course, pretty much ignored it as I am not your typical traveler and ordered the ostrich steak along with a delicious Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc (The FMC) followed by a light, but agreeable, Allesverloren 2020 Vintage Port which “peared” nicely with my dessert. (Sorry. Lol)
The next morning, all of our bags for the Silversea portion of this journey that would meet us at the One & Only in Cape Town were picked up in the hotel lobby (again by Goldring Travel special arrangement) unique Goldring Travel supplied safari bags were escorted with us to our check-in for our flight to Kasane, Botswana. (There is a weight and size limit on the bags, as well as a no-wheel requirement as two of our flights would be in 12-seater propeller planes.) After a glass of champagne and some food at the Priority Pass Lounge, we were off to the Chobe National Park to start our safari.
Deciding where to safari when there is a mix of people who have been on safari, are enthusiastic to be on their first safari, and those who really aren’t sure what a safari entails or if they would like it…while also providing a luxury experience, isn’t as easy as it might seem. So, I decided to balance my wanting to visit two totally different ecologies (and wildlife), with the need to start with an easier experience at a nice property, offering everyone a chance to recover from the long travel to South Africa, while allowing my guests to get their safari feet under them.
Sanctuary’s Chilwero Lodge (a subsidiary of Abercombie & Kent) was the perfect all-inclusive experience. This lodge overlooks the Chobe River, so much of what we would encounter would be different than the savanna/water hole experiences we would have at our second lodge. Each guest (or couple) had their own lodge with a welcome bottle of champagne. I was given the only lodge with a pool and fire pit…and that leads to a funny story later.
After a warm greeting and a bite to eat, it was time to head off in our private Land Cruiser with our wonderful guide, Tim. We weren’t 10 feet outside the electrified safety fence when we were met by a herd of elephants; a very nice welcome! Far different from my experiences in East Africa years ago, these elephants were docile and accepting of our presence. This is an obvious result of many years of not having to deal with poachers.
Those elephants were peaceful, but another herd wasn’t. We saw an unescorted white 4×4 drive quickly up the dirt road, followed by a number of very agitated, trumpeting, head-shaking elephants. Alas, there are rules that both humans and wildlife live by for there to be harmony: Be quiet, and do not ever get out of your vehicle. Clearly, those folks got out of their vehicle.
As we drove along a dirt road (off-roading is not allowed in Chobe National Park), we came across a large group of Banded Mongoose. What a treat watching them, running up the road, especially the babies following behind.
There are certain things I have wanted to see for years, especially since in East Africa – where my two prior safaris were – one being watching elephants enjoying the water. There were two young elephants playing with each other in the water among brilliant green grasses. We sat and watched and it was, well, magic.
I won’t bother you much about the birdlife, which I love, or list all the animals we saw, but let’s face it, a Nile crocodile stealthily slipping past is both beautiful and awe-inspiring.
Because we took a bit of extra time watching the wildlife (especially birds), we didn’t have time for a proper “sundowner”, so we sat in our safari vehicle for a cocktail and snacks before a drive back to the lodge with the sun having set. It was then time for dinner, and with everyone else exhausted, it was an early night for most.
However, I figured it was a great time to make an attempt at being romantic, “attempt” being the operative word! I asked for a nice fire to be set in front of my lodge and a bottle of Taittinger champagne on ice next to it. My girlfriend decided we should skinny-dip in our private pool, so things were looking good. BUT then I went to get something out of our lodge, and the door somehow had locked behind us…with the key safely inside. Yup, in classic wilderness manner, “Naked and Afraid”.
So how did we get back in? You cannot walk unescorted after dark because of roaming wildlife, so I called the front desk. As it was late, nobody was there, so it transferred my call to the U.S., who then called the lodge. And then the lodge called me back on my phone. (Thankfully, I had my phone with me!). Help came and saved us. (Fortunately, we had very small linen robes.) We had a great laugh as we drank our champagne in front of the fire, with my phone and key in my possession! As I said, I “attempted” to be romantic.
With a 5:30 a.m. wake-up and a quick cup of coffee, it was time to head out on our morning game drive. Shorty thereafter, there was a Silverback Jackel standing right in front of us, calling out for its mate just as the sun rose.
Then it was Cape Buffalo, Impala, a troop of Baboons, Ground Hornbills, South African Giraffes, Lilac Breasted Rollers, and…finally…a pride of Lion hiding under some bushes seeking relief from the hot sun. As this was our first lion sighting, we spent a long time sneaking peaks, but my clients were excited and happy, so all was good.
That evening we took to the water for an afternoon/evening of wildlife viewing in a luxury skiff (to the extent it could be luxury) complete with gin & tonics, vodka on ice, South African beer and wine, plus snacks. The highlight for me was a group of elephants, including a couple of very young ones swimming across the Chobe River using their trunks as snorkels. Magic!
The sunset wasn’t too bad either!
We returned for a traditional boma and barbeque with lots of options. Both fun and delicious!
And then the last night at Chilwero and the Chobe River came an end with another lodge room fire, champagne…and room key!
Our final morning at Chilwero and Chobe National Park, our guide was focused on finding the lion pride we saw hiding the day before. While on the “hunt,” we came across another jackal and, for some, a safari highlight for some: a huge troop of baboons, as well as a Kudu.
Eventually, we came across a lone lioness…and we waited. Then, in the distance, two cape buffalo appeared, wandering closer. Another younger lion appeared. Then, some rather exciting but somewhat feeble attempts at a kill followed. The excitement in our Land Cruiser was fantastic.
As we watched the two cubs we saw the day before made an appearance and seemingly posed for us.
While I knew that there was no way these two could bring down a full-size cape buffalo (and, apparently, so did the rest of their pride as another lioness eventually lazily looked on), it was truly exciting for my guests and a great way to spend part of our morning’s goodbye to Chobe and Chilwero!
I have to mention the idiocy of some, as there was yet another “stupid tourist” event. In the vehicle in front of us (this was one of the only times we had other vehicles around), a man in shorts and flip-flops tried to get out of the vehicle right in front of the lioness so that he could get a better photograph. Fortunately, our guide stopped him with one foot already headed to the ground. I mean would have seen a kill, but just not the Cape Buffalo. Geez!
Returning to Chilwero, we then packed things up and were escorted back to Kahane Airport for our flight to Moremi Game Reserve. This tiny airport conveniently and surprisingly had a Priority Pass lounge. After a quick local beer, it was time for us to board our very small 12-seater single-propeller plane, which made one stop during our one-and-a-half-hour journey.
While the views should have been what was most memorable, it was the stench of the man that boarded the plane during the short stop that I will remember! OMG!
Our flight arrived at a dirt airstrip about ten minutes from our next lodge: Sanctuary’s Chief’s Camp, an absolutely beautiful property with huge lodge homes, each with balconies and plunge pools overlooking the waterhole. Choruses of “I’m never leaving” were immediately heard.
But as much as the level of luxury increased, so would our safari experience, as Chief’s Camp is located in a game reserve, rather than a national park, so “off-roading” is not only permitted, it is essential!
Next up: Chiefs Camp!
