I have been so looking forward to sailing again on Sea Cloud Spirit; especially this time with Michelin star omakase chef Michael Collantes and his sommelier. Knowing my last experience, this is going to be – for this maritime dude – one sexy sailing experience! Sea Cloud Cruises – Goldring Travel Checks out Sea Cloud Spirit in Costa Rica & Panama: Reflections
But first I have to get there! My flights to Nice, France actually were on time, I was upgraded to first/Polaris on two of my three flights, and my luggage made it too. I mean, “What could go wrong?” Let me tell you!
I took an Uber to my hotel or, at least, what he thought was my hotel. He knew Hotel Mecure but, alas there are two of them and I was – I thought – staying at the better one on the famous and beautiful Promenade Des Anglais. I eventually arrived (for an extra 5€) at the correct hotel and saw one of my clients waiting for her room to be readied. (She had a wonderful looking room with a great view.)
However, I was then told I didn’t have a reservation in the system. Huh? Then it was the reservation was canceled by my consortium. Huh? Then I showed her my reservation was “live” online and confirmed in the system. But no matter what the story to me was, it was clear the hotel was overbooked and I probably had the least expensive rate, so I was not going to be staying there. Not surprisingly, the other Hotel Mecure had rooms and, oh what I deal, I could stay there for 20€ less. (See the obvious scam? I did!) Well, I could have let this experience ruin my day by insisting the hotel honor my reservation – why would I want to give them my money? – or I could find a solution. Well, I had another client staying at Le Meridian right next door.
So, I took my bags and prayed they had a room for me. (It had been sold out months ago.) I had to use all of my cards (I am a travel agent, I am Bonvoy Gold, and I have a client staying here) and they “found” a room for me…not inexpensively…but, alas a room but it would be about two hours before it was ready. (I later came to find out the Hotel Mecure room looked good, but it was actually quite worn with terrible sheets, light fixtures hanging loose on the wall, bad towels, etc. Whew! Glad I dodged that bullet!)
Personally, it was the best extra $300 I could have spent at the moment. My stress was immediately eliminated, my day was free to enjoy…and I was going to enjoy it!
I wandered as I do, past all the huge al fresco restaurants filled with tourists, just one block further and stumbled upon Boccaccio.(Nice is very close to Italy – actually at one time was part of pre-Italy – so there is a crossover of cuisines.) Well, actually, my nose found it first. It is a small, maybe ten table, very friendly al fresco venue that specializes in fresh seafood; especially shellfish. Fortunately, just as I arrived a small table became available with a great people-watching view. I had thought I would get mussels and a nice bottle of wine, but then I saw oysters and welks. I decided on the sometimes disappointing “mixed seafood basket” and a bottle of Minuty Prestige Cotes de Provence wine.
It was the perfect choice! Oysters, hard clams, mussels, whelks, snails, shrimp and prawns served with a wonderful rustic bread and French butter. I was in heaven.
And then those heavens opened and it began pouring rain. Half the tables were soaked, but somehow the umbrella over my table kept me totally dry. Oh, I kept waiting for the deluge to visit me, but it didn’t. However, I did sort of get a visit. A German family moved to the table next to me after their table was drenched. I saw the husband with his wife and daughter, and her friend, had just finished his wine, so I offered him the last glass of my bottle. As the rain fell, we had a wonderful conversation.
I mentioned I was sailing on Sea Cloud Spirit and he and his wife became very excited. I guess Sea Cloud being German is well known and has an excellent reputation. Ya never know who you are going to meet!
We chatted long after the rain stopped, but I definitely wanted to get back to the hotel for a shower and a nap. Why? Because I had dinner reservations with another of my clients and her two friends at a Michelin-star restaurant I found that really intrigued me: Les Agitateurs. (Isn’t that the perfect place for me to dine?!)
Les Agitateurs is a tiny corner storefront kind of place with a fresh minimalistic but warm design, with about eight tables plus four tables in the “basement”. We were guided to the basement (Don’t bump your head) to an elegant and comfortable table with just the right lighting and spaced well away from the other tables.
It was just the start of a 4.5-hour dining experience that was one of the best I have ever had. From the charming, friendly, and knowledgeable service of Manon (when was the last time I specifically mentioned a server’s name?), to the two adorable, very talented, and caring chefs (Juliette and Samuel) who visited our table three times, to nineteen truly unique, beautiful and delicious dishes, it was just about perfect. (Oh, the company was fantastic too!)
We found it hard to pick a favorite dish, but I chose a truffled potato puff with black truffle and foie gras and pigeon in puff pastry.
The bone marrow reduction over leeks was a close third only losing out of the top position because the first two were just extraordinarily beautiful as well.
Here are just a couple more of the dishes:
After a relaxing morning of work, and I checkout extended to 2:00 pm, I had two hours to kill before we could board Sea Cloud Spirit. What was I to do? Obviously, a late lunch!
And if it was that good yesterday, Boccaccio would be perfect for today…and I would get my mussels. I was going to order.
I then went to order something else, but was told the kitchen was closed. Huh? What? My server said said that while I couldn’t order another dish, I could order dessert. So I ordered two, a fresh fig one and the world’s largest and most delicious profiteroile.
It was time to head over the Sea Cloud Spirit, so I grabbed an Uber and there she was!
Next up: Sea Cloud Spirit!