I previously experienced Scenic Eclipse in Antarctica, and it remains one of my favorite expeditions. So, when I was invited to sail on its river cruise product, specifically Scenic Diamond, in Bordeaux, the combination of Scenic experience and Bordeaux wines was extremely enticing. When it married up with my disembarking the naming ceremony of a new cruise ship in Barcelona, so it was only a short 1.5-hour flight to Bordeaux (rather than a long intercontinental one), well, I just had no choice!

I was greeted at the airport for a group transfer to the ship (there will be a group of travel agents onboard, as well as guests who were to sail in the Rhine or Danube that opted to take this sailing due to historically low waters on those rivers). But with the other flights delayed or canceled (what is going on with the airlines?!), Scenic didn’t have me wait around, but rather had me at the ship in no time. Check-in was just as quick and flawless.

Admittedly, having been up until 3:00 AM the night before partying after the naming ceremony, the first thing I did was inspect how comfortable the bed in my suite was. For some reason, my bedding was set up as twins, and as Scenic uses duvets, but I found them to be very comfortable, if a bit small. (That was immediately fixed the next day with the beds being converted to a king with a large, even more comfortable, duvet.) Note that on embarkation day, the evening turndown service is completed in the afternoon, but not to worry: on all other days it is done, as expected…in the evening.

My accommodations are called a suite, but it is a stretch. For one person traveling alone, it is more than comfortable. For a couple expecting a suite, rather than a stateroom, it would be a bit underwhelming, but only as to size. There is plenty of storage for a week-long river cruise with one long hanging closet, one shorter hanging closet with shelves above, three drawers with shelves above, and a few small cubbies. The desk is long and narrow, but does hold my laptop, second monitor, and various and sundry other small items. Note that all outlets are European 220-volt, so bring adapters.

There is a stocked mini-fridge with soft drinks, juices, a beer, and mini-bottles of spirits, plus delicious, sweet wafers, that are replenished daily. I think my favorite amenity is the two sets of earplugs! I’ve never seen that before, but I think they should be provided by every ship!

The bathroom is large enough, but not spacious, with one larger sink, a good bit of counter space, and a somewhat tight stall shower with great water pressure (once you figure out all the buttons!).

There is also a nice balcony with two comfortable all-weather wicker chairs with nice cushions. However, the configuration is curious because there is both a typical sliding balcony door on the suite side and, on the water side, a sliding window that lowers. When the suite-side balcony door is open, the air conditioning turns off, even if the water-side window is up. But, I guess, if one person wants to be on the balcony and the other wants air conditioning, it works. Quirky, but not really an issue other than it makes the space feel a bit smaller than it really is. (But with all that glass, the suite does feel bright and airy.)

Also, Scenic claims to have butlers. While they will adeptly serve you breakfast in your suite, shine your shoes, tend to your one bag of included laundry (including pressing), etc., the reality is that these hard-working folks wear many hats and perform admirably, all considered. (My butler does call me when I skip dinner to see if I all is OK and if I’d like a glass of wine. Nice Touch!)

Scenic’s river cruise product is quite inclusive, with fast Wi-Fi for two devices included, as are premium spirits, wine, and beer. There is a diverse selection of wines and, being in Bordeaux, they are mostly French. It is hard to critique them, for they are more than acceptable, but when I am spending my days drinking outstanding wines, the measure is just too high, and my palate is simply being spoiled in the best possible way. I will not list every wine I tasted (or drank) off the ship, but will provide some photographic evidence! (I’m sure my favorite bars and restaurants in Truckee are not going to be happy with me when I return home!)

Scenic also provided a few of “free choice” shore excursions in each port that you sign up for in advance, including some with e-bikes.  Scenic is quite flexible if you want to change them once onboard. (I’ll review the tours as I experience them)

After my nap, welcome cocktail party and daily port talk, I could not waste an opportunity to dine in Bordeaux, so I skipped the dinner onboard and headed to a tiny gem of a place for a light dinner and Bordeaux wines that I somehow stumbled upon in my research: Les Doux Secrets d’Helene (Helene’s Sweet Secrets). Andy and Helene run this charming, funky bistro (they call it a wine bar, but it is much more) that is so hidden you could never stumble upon it. It is definitely a “If you know you know” kind of place…and you should know it! (Uber only took me so far and then I was on my own with Google Maps.)

I arrived to an enthusiastic greeting by two bulldogs, one English and one pitbull, as well as Andy, to a very eclectic, relaxed, and charming place. The menu is simple and most dishes are decided that day. I ordered five tapas and three wines, the tapas selected by Helene and the wine curated by Andy after discussing what I was interested in. That quickly became four wines!

Before I knew it, I was there for over two hours, the dogs were asleep, and I figured it was time for a dessert before strolling and people watching along the river for the two miles back to the ship.

The ship overnighted in Bordeaux and then in a different port each night (including back to Bordeaux mid-cruise). The distances traveled are not great, and with the changes in tides, even though night sailing is permitted, having the option to visit the small villages in the evenings makes the most sense. For me, this gives me more of a feeling of being in a mobile hotel, as most days and nights, you can dine off the ship if you desire. (I noticed that I am among the very few, if not only, guests doing so.)

The next morning we sailed to Libourne, sort of the gateway to Saint Émilion and Pomerol (also known as Bordeaux’s Right Bank). The entire ship, informally broken down into groups, had the same tour in Saint Émilion. I started out on the tour, but pretty quickly needed to head off on my own. I just wanted to “feel” Saint Émilion, rather than “see” it. Scenic makes it clear that it is definitely an option, so I wasn’t being “that guy”.

As I wandered, I wasn’t sure what I was looking for, or at times at, but I knew at some point there was going to be a serious wine tasting of the local wines. I asked Claude and ChatGPT for suggestions, and they were consistent. But when I asked for serious, not touristic, reviews, it humbled them both. Hence, it was up to me to figure it out…and I did!  Vignobles et Châteaux Wine Bar was modern, had an incredible wine library of over 1,000 labels, a friendly and knowledgeable sommelier, and, importantly, air conditioning. We had a wonderful chat and some outstanding wines in a beautiful, modern setting in an historic and charming village, making the juxtaposition both interesting and comfortable.

With my having two truly memorable culinary, wine, and cultural experiences in Bordeaux, France in less than twenty-four hours, I could have taken a break. But I just couldn’t. Since we were overnighting in Libourne, I felt compelled not to dine on the ship, but to drink in (pun intended) as much of the experiences it had to offer. However, being Monday, most restaurants were closed…but not all of them.

I was able to reserve the last table at MA, a highly regarded bistro. The entrance wasn’t impressive, and the woman who greeted me was in an old t-shirt and spoke no English. But then a good-looking, tall, graceful man told her there was a table for me (in both French and English) and I was given what clearly was the last table…but I was grateful, especially as the bistro quickly began filling up.

Dinner was to be simple, but it seems nothing in French cuisine is truly simple without also being understatedly elegant. With a bit of guidance, I selected a bottle of Monat and enjoyed a wonderful foie gras pate that became more sumptuous as it warmed in the summer heat with French bread. Then it was an incredible bone marrow. 

I was pretty full with all the fat and protein, but I had more wine, so how could I not have some French cheese? When I could smell it long before it reached my table, I knew it was the right decision. With the wine finished, I felt a small palate-cleanser of sour cherry ice cream would be the perfect finish to my meal. And it was!

It was then a stroll back to the Scenic Diamond for a Glenfiddich on the rocks, sitting on my balcony (with the window down), just relaxing, listening to the river, and taking in the view.

I have to say that Scenic Diamond has most certainly put me in the best places on a very comfortable ship, with wonderful service, and I still have six more days.

Next up: More wine. More cheese. More foie gras. More history. And I haven’t even gotten to…