My Bordeaux river cruise on Scenic Diamond continued with a morning sail from Fort Medoc to Pauillac, France. As it is a famous name in the Médoc region of the Left Bank, I was very optimistic that I could have a great local wine tasting.
I preface what follows: If you don’t know, you don’t know…and until you are taught what you want or need to know… you don’t even know if you should know. It leads, to my mind, a lost opportunity to be a traveler rather than a tourist! In other words, if Scenic treated the chateau visits as an educational experiences akin to how it treats historical-based excursions rather than just another afternoon drinking marginal wine at a touristic chateau, guests would find it more engaging and interesting.
In Pauillac, while Scenic advised there would be a wine tasting tour when pre-cruise choosing your Free Choice excursion, once onboard Scenic advised that in Pauillac there would be three different châteaux and that guests would be split into groups and they wouldn’t know which château would be visited until after you randomly boarded one of three buses. That raised a big red flag for me that, regardless of château, it would be just another underwhelming touristic visit. (Afterward I did inquire as to if any of the guests wanted to know the name of the château they would be visiting, and not a single one did and, overall, I didn’t hear anyone say they had a great experience.)
To be fair, while Scenic does offer specific specialty wine cruises, the fact of the matter is that Bordeaux = Wine, so even if you don’t know it before you come here, I feel Scenic, as a luxury river cruise line, should be obliged to offer more than the ordinary, even if as an extra-cost option in one of the most famous and important wine regions of the world. Overall, the Scenic excursions offered are fine (not outstanding) for those new to wine but woefully underwhelming both in character and wine quality for anyone who is more than a true novice…and that includes those who, on this cruise, have already visited two or three châteaux.
And while Scenic does a great job of mentioning that some of the châteaux visited on this river cruise are of important classifications, making it seem as if the visit is somewhat rarified, the wines poured are just acceptable and offered for sale at above-market prices. It is also disappointing that Scenic does not offer an onboard wine tasting experience – possibly the better wines from those châteaux after visiting there; again, even at an extra cost. However, again being honest, based on the guests on this particular sailing (which includes a number who had planned Danube and Rhine cruises, but moved onto this one due to low water issues), I am not so sure that many would have been interested in, or paid for, more upscale opportunities, even though I would have.
Anyway, while those folks heading off to one of the three unnamed châteaux and the bike tour were on their way, I headed into Pauillac only to find a rather depressing town with little to offer and, especially as August is when everyone is on holiday, not much to see or do. After finding the supermarket, which had a fantastic selection of local wines, many in the 2-3€ range, and even fine champagnes under 30€, I was getting concerned that my morning would be a bust.
But then I found Maison du Tourisme et du Vin (The Tourism and Wine Center) literally at the end of the road; ideally located where it is almost impossible to find. But fortunately, I did. It is a very simple place that offers souvenirs and some displays. But it also offers personal wine tastings where you pay for a fixed number of wines to taste (3 cl each) up to 49€ for ten tastings. And, if you don’t use all that you paid for, they refund the difference. (Clearly, that refund option was not utilized by me!)
Up the stairs I went into a rather ordinary room that contained three automatic wine tasting machines, each with eight different wines (24 in total). By touchscreen, you get a little information, the cost of a pour if you didn’t purchase a card, and the cost of a bottle should you then decide you loved it enough. And there I was: A Kid in a Candy Shop! After about two hours of tastings of some wonderful and “interesting” wines, I headed back to the Scenic Diamond knowing my time in Pauillac was an outstanding one. Who knew?!
Scenic Diamond then made a short sail to Bourg; an incredibly charming and picturesque town built into the side of cliffs. Obviously, I skipped the chateau tour, the walking tour, and the 18-mile e-bike tour (though I would have done that if it hadn’t been sold out) and had a truly enjoyable wander…with many steep stairs throughout this sleepy town.
I took a photograph of a building where there were two older women sitting, probably in the same place for years. One woman said in French (at least I think she did), “Why are you taking a picture of the building, but not us?” So, I did, and we had a nice moment laughing. Much more memorable than the picture of the building.
The Citadel, Bourg, France
At the far end of the town, just past the citadel, outside the 13th-century Roman gate, and below the village, are caves. As I peeked in one, I saw a plaque explaining that this huge cave was turned into a hidden and protected fuel depot by the Nazis. When the Allies were advancing, the Nazis blew up the depot, but while the fuel tanks were destroyed, the cave was not. Another reminder, just as the playing of Schindler’s List theme the other night, life in France is not all wine and roses.
My mobile hotel, Scenic Diamond, sailed yet again at 6:30 PM and arrived in Bordeaux at 9:00 PM, and I was not going to miss another culinary experience. One thing Bordeaux is famous for is oysters. They are not raised in Bordeaux, but in nearby Arcachon Bay. My research led me to Le Cabane Cent Un located in Halle des Chartrons. It was about a twenty-minute walk from the ship, and when I arrived, I quickly realized that my reservation meant nothing…in a good way. Highly energetic young people were enjoying alfresco Bordeaux nightlife at about a dozen restaurants with house music blaring. (Sort of like a more refined Ibiza!)
I was pointed to a table for two, and while I waited for service, it quickly became a table for one as a young woman with determination and a smile took the other chair. But my server was charming and hustling. I ordered a dozen No. 4 (smaller) oysters, some prawns, and a bottle of La Dada de Rouillac white Bordeaux wine. What a perfect combination. The oysters were so briny, sweet, and plump that I believe them to be the best oysters I have ever eaten. (As you can see, the smaller oysters were anything but small!) A perfect couple of hours!
After a morning of work, Scenic Diamond sailed to Cadillac, France. Unfortunately, my earlier thinking about Jimmy Buffett’s “He Went to Paris” got my mind into music, and I just kept hearing Billy Joel singing, “Cadillac-ac-ac-ac” in my head. It took a bit, but I drove it out. (I know. Sorry!) Scenic offered three excursions: Sauternes wine tasting by bus or by e-bike or a walking tour of Cadillac.
This was my only opportunity to try out the e-bike tour. Because it started later in the afternoon, it also gave me an opportunity to wander the tiny village of Cadillac. As it was summer and siesta, the village was very sleepy. In fact, it was so sleepy that when I went to enter the impressive Cadillac Ducal Castle, I was told to come back after siesta. Oh well.
After a bit more of a wander, it was time to hop on my e-bike for a nine-mile ride through the beautiful countryside with a very eccentric guide who just assumed everyone had cycled with him before. That rightfully upset a few folks (heck, he didn’t even ask, let alone attempt, to adjust my or some other’s bikes), but eventually it was sorted out. Safety is one aspect of the French laissez-faire I have found in my travels that needs a more rigorous approach.
Halfway through the ride, we stopped at Château du Mayne, owned by a charming couple that, if you listened closely, told you the old story of how to become a millionaire in the wine industry: Invest 3,000,000€ in a vineyard! There was no tour of their winemaking facilities (to the extent this tiny chateau even had any) but more of a storytelling of woes and tribulations followed by a tasting of two different vintages of Sauternes. Fortunately, they took the time to explain why Sauternes are not really dessert wines and what they best pair with (fatty foods). It would have been nice if, for example, Scenic arranged to have the wines offered and then again after having a small bite of something fatty, whether it be pate or nuts. Again, I think Scenic should curate the châteaux a bit better…even if it was at this sorry, but kind of charming, one.
Alas, the wine tasting was not my primary focus or, honestly, any focus for me because by this time my expectations were adjusted accordingly. The bike ride through the countryside was. So, I was happy with my excursion.
We set sail again for Bordeaux as our last voyage because we will now spend two nights in Bordeaux before disembarking the ship. The marketing of this cruise gives no indication that you will spend so many nights in Bordeaux. I think it would be a benefit to exploit this with an Evening Dining in Bordeaux shore excursion opportunity; especially since so many guests just don’t venture out at night.
Also, now having experienced this river cruise, I would recommend that those who love wines hire private guides and make appointments at the châteaux of specific interest. Now I know…and this is why I travel so much: I can give the best advice because I’ve been there and done that!
But oh, there is more! That evening I dined at La Tupina, Michelin-mentioned for French cuisine of southwest France; kind of an institution. And “institutional” dining can either be amazing or terribly disappointing. My experience was unequivocally amazing, which started right when I walked into the tiny entry and into the blazing-hot wood-fired grill where my soon-to-be-ordered duck would be cooked.
I was seated on a small alfresco balcony with a wonderful view, overlooking the diners on the street below. I don’t know why I scored this picture-perfect table, but I wasn’t asking any questions. And from there, it only got better. My server, Emily, was as joyful as one gets, but also took amazing care of me, making sure I knew what I was ordering (after asking me if I was American because, she admitted, Americans normally wouldn’t order what I did).
A plate of radishes, cherry tomatoes, and pate with crusty French bread was immediately placed on my table. Then a bottle of Château Lafitte Heritage 2020 (Don’t worry, it is not “that” Lafitte!). My culinary experience was already set in my mind: Sanguette (pork blood and duck neck crepe with parsley) and Whole Duck Breast grilled over an open fire with Duck Fat French Fries. This was about as Southwest French Country cuisine as it gets, so it was time to sit back and be French. Ahhhh.
Two hours later, it was time for dessert: Prunes in Armagnac and Honey ganache with peach ice cream. And then an Uber back to the ship. BUT while I was waiting for my ride, Emily rushed out, grabbed a chair, handed me a Canale and a glass of cognac. Amazing!
Scenic offered Shopping with the Chef at the end of each cruise. Because the demand is so high, it holds a drawing the night before for all the suites that expressed interest, eliminating the pressure and disappointments right at the beginning of the cruise. While I wasn’t chosen, I was smart enough to ask if I could tag along if one of the partners of any chosen couples didn’t want to go. I got lucky!
It was as expected. A nice city tour followed by a shopping experience with the Executive Chef in the Marche des Capucins. It is a small, old market with many stalls closed, but enough open to “put on the show”. The other guests were happy, even more so when the chef put out a spread of things purchased on a counter for all to enjoy. However, the better part of the experience was a delicious cooking demonstration by the sous chef in the afternoon. Nicely done!
Right after the cooking demonstration, it was time for an oyster event for the entire ship. Dozens of shucked oysters were offered. While not quite as good as what I had the other evening (could any be?), it was a lovely event coupled with Lillete Spritzes.
I was joking with the tour coordinator about my texting my children,“What was it that Dexter (a cartoon character) would say? Something ‘fromage’?” She said, “I remember Dexter.” And, like my kids, said it was, “Omelet du Fromage!” She then told me it reminded her that there was an excellent cheese and wine place very close by called Bistro du Fromage. It is actually Bistrot du Fromager, and that is where I was off to next…after I started my packing.
It was literally two minutes from the ship and was definitely more of a local joint than a connoisseur’s destination. But as my last night, it was a wonderful casual place to enjoy some cheese and a Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc. Empty when I arrived, it was crowded when I left…assumedly because it was early evening and the heat of the day hadn’t yet dissipated.
My server said he couldn’t tell me the cheeses in English, but would tell me in French. I picked up a couple of names, but then had an idea: Upload a photo of my cheese plate to Claude. Not perfect, but a big assist. Another big assist: I ordered some pork pate to balance my evening from cheese overload!
I decided discretion was something I should consider, so as it was the last night, I headed back to the ship, had a Glenfiddich on the top deck while a local musician played in the lounge. Eventually, I was met by a few folks before calling it a night. I had to be up at 6:30 AM for my included transfer to the Bordeaux airport, bringing to my river cruise.
Reflections and Review
River cruises in Bordeaux are unique. There is little in common with cruises on the Danube, Rhine, Rhone, etc., other than you are traveling on a river on a river cruise ship. All the villages are close, the waters are not Instagram-beautiful, and the views of grand castles and châteaux are less while cruising the rivers, but plentiful when driving or biking the area. If you are looking for those things as you sail along, Bordeaux is probably not for you. But if you love wines, endless views of vineyards, the charm of châteaux, amazing wine opportunities, southwestern French cuisine, and some interesting history, Bordeaux will not disappoint.
My river cruise on Scenic Diamond was incredibly relaxing and enjoyable. It afforded me the opportunity to truly delve into Bordeaux and its surrounds, in a much more enriching way than my prior ocean cruise Bordeaux experiences where I had arranged some amazing wine tastings crammed into less than two days.
Scenic Diamond is a well-maintained, though older, ship, and I found it and my stateroom (marketed as a suite, which it is not) quite comfortable for me as a single traveler, especially after I embraced my balcony door and window arrangement. While the rivers’ muddy waters and rather ordinary scenery (on the water) weren’t awe-inspiring, sailing down the river on my true balcony with my feet up in a comfortable chair and a nice glass of Bordeaux wine was fantastic…and unique to the Scenic’s ships.
One important thing I did not understand prior to this river cruise is that so much time is actually spent in Bordeaux; something I consider to be a huge positive worthy of explaining better. As you can tell, I took great advantage of it, while utilizing Scenic Diamond essentially as my mobile hotel. I highly recommend this approach.
Scenic’s service was wonderful and filled with smiles and efficiency. Even on the last evening, while sitting in the busy lounge, I asked for a particular white Bordeaux, specifically saying if it wasn’t there, another one was fine. My server then disappeared, returning with the one I wanted. I said that she didn’t need to do that. Her response was, “Why not?” That is how everyone from my stewardess to Reception to shore excursion folks to cruise director handled everything. And for those that believe seeing the captain is important, he was very visible and charming. Bravo!
I found the food onboard to be OK. I did not eat many meals on the ship, finding the numerous opportunities to enjoy local cuisines (so much more than on Danube and Rhine river cruises where the ships sail overnight), something to take advantage of…which also led to me skipping some other meals because there is only so much I could eat. The ship’s cuisine being less than impressive was definitely something surprising considering the truly elevated culinary experiences I enjoyed on Scenic Eclipse. (As a side note, I did find the executive chef and sommelier presenting the suggested menu and wines each evening cheesy, more akin to a Princess cruise than a luxury Scenic experience.)
As noted, I believe the shore excursions really need to be improved. Scenic can, and is expected, to do more than various touristic chateaux visits with marginal wines. I say, if you have to pick one: Amazing chateaux or amazing wine tastings, though obviously I would always go for the latter; especially in Bordeaux.
As a final note of caution: Do not compare this Scenic Bordeaux river cruise with its other river cruises or, for that matter, the river cruises of its competition. Bordeaux is a unique experience that need be measured only against its competition in Bordeaux. With its all-inclusive product, large actual balconies, great service, and its carrying less guests than others, I would not hesitate to consider another Bordeaux river cruise with Scenic.
