My European river cruise on AmaWaterways’ AmaStella is to be a low-key, relaxing experience, cruising up the Rhine River for the first week and then meandering through the Dutch canals the second, with a real focus on Belgium. But first, it was flying to Basel, Switzerland for what could be categorized as an elegant and over-the-top stay at one of the world’s best hotels.

It all started out with my flights on United Airlines, which usually have some story about an issue or two or three. But this time, United Airlines did a – listen to this – a great job, so it is also worth writing about. On my flight from Reno to Denver, there was no upgrade, but there were smiles, complimentary snacks and snack boxes delivered quickly, and my Bloody Mary order was delivered with two miniature bottles of vodka without my asking. On my Denver to Frankfurt flight, I also feared no upgrade and, thus, begrudgingly took my bulkhead aisle seat in Economy Plus…staring at the “FULL” on the upgrade list…and then one seat became free and then, BINGO, I received my upgrade to Polaris. (I feel sorry, but too sorry, for the couple that obviously had a misconnect). After a somewhat long layover in Frankfurt at the Lufthansa senator’s lounge it was time for the last short flight to Basel, Switzerland which remarkably also went off flawlessly. (I recently watched some YouTuber’s video about how hard it is to get to Basel, Switzerland on their way to an AmaWaterways river cruise…thankfully not mine…. using buses, trams, and hours of wandering. Too bad they didn’t use Goldring Travel!)
After gathering my luggage (yes!), my transfer was waiting and I quickly arrived at the Grand Hotel Trois Rois, Where I was upgraded to a queen bed Riverview room, that was just beautiful. I cannot recommend this truly grand old-world hotel enough from atmosphere, to service, to cuisine, it is truly “The Best of The Best”.



I do have a client with her family independently sailing on this two-week cruise (It is not a Goldring Travel group cruise). She very graciously offered to pay for my three Michelin star dining experience at Cheval Blanc, which is located in the hotel, if I wouldn’t mind her family joining. But that was to happen only after she invited me to enjoy a glass (or two) of white Pinot Noir in the beautiful bar in the afternoon before getting ready for a fantastic evening.

Cheval Blanc is in a gorgeous setting and the wine-paired dining experience did not disappoint. The restaurant arranged for pre-dinner cocktails in the Bar before escorting us to the dining room, where the magic really began:
– Three pre-starter courses


– Toro of Balfego tuna, miso and cucumber

– Polenta, cream spinach and while Alba truffle (which was really truffle with polenta and cream spinach!)

– Atlantic turbot, mustard seed and tarragon sauce
– Saddle of Styria venison, pepper, celeriac mousseline and Rouennaiser sauce (a decadent Bordelaise sauce with the addition of puréed duck liver)
– An amazing cheese selection

– Abinao chocolate dessert

After dinner it was off to The Council, again reserved by Cheval Blanc, a beautiful modern cigar lounge. A perfect way to conclude an evening of extraordinary, and very much appreciated, excesses.
Having arranged a 4:00 p.m. late checkout and not being able to have access to our room on AmaWaterways AmaStella until 3:00 p.m., it was time for a lazy (recovery) morning (clearly having a very light breakfast after that wonderful evening) before setting out for a wander around Basel, Switzerland. A wander through beautiful architecture,



a farmer’s market,



and walking along the Rhine River only underscored the understated wealth and appreciation of the finest things in life, that is all so Basel, Switzerland.

Before heading over to the AmaStella, it was time for a Foie Gras, Cheese, and Wine lunch, sitting on a sumptuous sofa in the corner of the Hotel Trois Rois bar.


It was hard to believe that I had only spent 24 hours in Basel and at the Grand Hotel Trois Rois, but that was all it was. But, alas, it was now time to board the AmaWaterways AmaStella and start our two-week river cruise.