It was time to board AmaWaterways AmaStella for a two-week river cruise, first down the Rhine River from Basel, Switzerland to Amsterdam, Holland, The Netherlands and then from Amsterdam through Belgium and back to Amsterdam. It is, for me, a fantastic itinerary where, as I mentioned before, I have the privilege of visiting two countries this well-traveled person has only visited in airports (Switzerland and Belgium).

The AmaStella was not docked in the center of town, which avoided the somewhat cumbersome task of an initial boarding passing through other river cruise ships rafted together. It was a small, but appreciated, bit of logistics.

Having sailed on her sistership, AmaCerto, in 2014 I knew the layout would be essentially the same, as usually is case with most river cruise ships within the larger brands.  What did surprise me is the pristine condition of AmaStella, which was built in 2016. After a decade in service you would think she was just launched.

She carries 156 guests (Viking carries 190 guests…20% more on the same size ship) over four decks (including a beautiful Sun Deck) with one main restaurant, a Chef’s Table restaurant, a lounge, as well as staterooms and suites. (Yes, there is an elevator, though it does not service the Sun Deck as its height would not allow for the ship to pass under a number of bridges.)

I am staying in an AB stateroom, one of the larger ones, which has a twin balcony configuration: One is a typical outside balcony (here, versus Viking’s ships, is wide enough for you to sit facing out to the water and has a nice side table) and the other is a French balcony that opens onto an sitting area with two comfortable chairs and is great for lying in bed watching and listening as you cruise up the calm river waters.

There is a large desk with a computer/television that provides all the information you might desire and with a decent selection of movies, as well as a refrigerator. The bathroom is surprisingly large for a river cruise ship with two sinks and a large shower with two showerheads (as well as a motion-sensor blue nightlight so you don’t blind yourself in the night).

AmaWaterways is a fairly inclusive product with all tours (except a few special ones) included, as are sparkling wines and mimosas at breakfast, beer and wine at lunch and dinner (the wines are quite good and vary throughout the cruise), as well as a Sip & Sail Happy Hour with an open bar for the hour before dinner and during the daily briefing. Pricing for beer, wine and spirits are shockingly low, so don’t expect a big bar tab at the end of your journey. (And, yes, AmaStella has two different Glenfiddich whiskies, so I am happy.)

I have found the included Wi-Fi to be quite good, if imperfect. And you may need a second sign-on for it to work between devices. I bring along a Starlink Mini, so it isn’t an issue for me. (Funny thing: I didn’t think about losing Starlink service when the ship enters a lock!) I have also found that, except in more remote areas, mobile telephone service is quite consistent.

One thing I found frustrating before the cruise, but have found to be a welcome companion during it, is the My AmaWaterways app. It has all of the Daily Cruisers, lots of cruise information (such as the locks we travel through, how locks operate, etc.), shore excursions, and more. It is setup to function even when off the ship, as most of the documents are downloaded so hard copies are always available.

So, with that, the river cruise begins! And the first thing I realized is that where we dock is not necessarily relevant (other than proximity) to where we visit. This is a bit different from my last AmaWaterways river cruise, which focused on small towns and villages on the Rhine and Danube Rivers. This cruise focuses more on larger cities and, I am guessing, some of the closer in docking areas are either logistically difficult because of the restrictions now in place for tour buses or they are reserved by other lines. Regardless, not having to raft up is a plus. As a result, I will discuss more about where I visit rather than where we docked.

The first city was Colmar, France, in the Alsace region. AmaWaterways offered a hike, a beer tasting tour (This is a Beer Cruise, so there are many additional beer tours offered), and a walking tour. The offered walking tour was gentle or regular. As our regular tour was a bit slow for me and, frankly, just exploring on my own is what I do, after an initial orientation, it was off on my own, focusing on the area called Petit Venice. It was a beautiful walk, but as it started early on a Sunday, most of the shops and cafes were closed, though I did love strolling the residential area, seeing folks walking home from the boulangerie with fresh baguettes.

The Petite Venice area was charming and everything you’d think a charming Alsace village would be.

As I strolled, I heard the sound of hard soles of shoes slamming against the cobblestones, disturbingly bringing back memories of the videos I watched as a child in Hebrew school of Nazis marching through streets just like these, if not exactly these, with the mantra of “Never Forget!” Alas, some of this journey brings back memories of families, mine and others, good and terribly bad, which emphasize that there are aspects of being Jewish that most cannot easily understand. And, of course, as the history of the Nazis falls further back in history, it becomes less and less prominent in the thoughts of many Americans, as they are not confronted with that history on a daily basis. (More on this as this trip continues, especially in the Netherlands.)

The guide has mentioned that visiting the covered market was a “must” and, well, you know me and markets. But, alas, it wasn’t a bustling market, but a half-closed market because it was a Sunday market. However, my instincts told me to have a seat at the indoor market portion of La Terrasse du Marche as it was busy with locals. This humble Tables & Auberges winner had a curious menu of packages of food and drink, as well as an impressive local wine list. So, I purchased my package, which included the fresh baguette I still craved, a fresh croissant, cured meats and cheeses, and some fresh fruit, which I paired (OK, I just drank) with a tasting of four local wines: Edelzwicker, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Blanc.

After a bit more of a wander, it was time to head back to the bus for the short ride back to the AmaStella for a rest before setting sail for Strasbourg, France, in the early afternoon. After a very nice dinner there was a local entertainer that I thought would be terrible, but he was actually quite good and had quite a few of the guests up and dancing.

The next day was Strasbourg, France, where AmaWaterways had five tour options: City Tour – Active, City Tour – Regular, City Tour – Gentle, City Tour – Late Starter, and Bike Tour. And AmaWaterways is fine with you starting with a tour and then heading out on your own, as it makes sure you know where the meeting point is for the return to the ship. In fact, in some places it also offers shuttles for those who want to spend even more time on their own.

Providing – no, encouraging – each guest with the ability to customize each day, significantly reduces the feeling of being trapped on tours. Also, spreading out the guests by having so many options really improves one’s experience, as you aren’t suffering with those who need or want to go too fast or slow for you, who don’t want to or can’t travel distances or navigate challenging cobblestones or stairs, or are more focused on shopping, eating, or cocktails.

In Strasbourg, France, I selected the Active City Tour, and it was active, as we walked over four miles at a faster, but still comfortable, pace. And our guide was fantastic. She was a New Yorker who, following her now long gone lover, eventually settled in Strasbourg. As we walked and she pointed out things of interest, her ability to explain not only the troubling history of Strasbourg’s repeated changing from French to/from German control, but also the significant impacts it has had on the people living there – cultural, language, political, etc. – was  as remarkable as it was troubling.

After the tour, there was plenty of free time, and, being me, it was time to find a place to enjoy some Alsace cuisine and wine. While the guide directed us to a street near the main cathedral for places to eat…and I tried to find one, but it all seemed too touristy.

I wanted to return to the picturesque Petite France area. And there I settled on Lohkas, located in a building from 1676 that was used for tanning. The area formerly was where leathers were tanned. The term Lohkas refers to the wasted tanning solution that was poured into old cheese molds, dried, and sold as heating fuel.

We were brought up the narrow and rickety back stairs to a dining room overlooking the canal, which seemed unchanged since its inception. It was time for a nice Riesling, duck foie gras, and two Choucroute (a sauerkraut-based dish), one with three fish and one with three sausages and salted pork neck. Each was comfort food at its highest level… and filling at an even higher level! 

After lunch, we returned to the main cathedral for the shuttle back to the ship but were given the option of heading to a beer tasting first. Well, you know what I did!  Unfortunately, there were so many that took that option, and they combined with those on a beer tour, that it wasn’t going to be a great ending to a great day, so off I went.

In a “Ya’ Never Know” moment, after again failing to find a café or wine bar that would work, we returned to take the next shuttle to the ship. However, being early, we starting talking with the AmaWaterways guide waiting to escort us to the bus. We asked about a small group of people who were sort of protesting. He explained that they were part of a small group that wants Alsace to be independent and rejects French governance, pushing more for a Germanic lean, as the historical culture and language are more closely aligned with that. After my day there, I was wondering, “What exactly did he mean? Nazi, possibly?” I didn’t want to push it as those discussions are ones the guides are supposed to avoid.

This evening, it was a Beer Pairing Dinner consisting of five courses paired with a variety of beers. While the cuisine was solid, as it always is, I did not understand the beer pairings at all. I am not a true connoisseur of beer and, truth be told, I find most craft beers to be curious at best and generally not very good…at least according to my palate. Fortunately for me, AmaWaterways supplemented the beers with nice Riesling and Bordeaux wine options.

The next morning was a visit to Heidelberg Castle, though there were options for a long hike or a visit to Speyer, Germany. There were options for a gentle, regular or active tour and we took, we thought, the active one. Upon arrival we were advised we had a substitute guide and, to be honest, he was quite poor. Besides many disjointed comments, he took forever, so our active tour took the longest and wasn’t very enjoyable. (What a difference from the day before, but fortunately this was not nearly as an important visit.)

But the castle and its ruins were beautiful.

Lest I not forget: We did get to see the world’s largest wine barrel!

After the tour ended, Whew!, there was time wandering the town’s shopping area and then a quick beer.

We sailed the remainder of the day on our way to Rüdesheim. The more relaxed pace of a river cruise is wonderful, but is obviously filled with a tremendous amount of history, culture, religion, culture, wine and beer. 

I could get used to this!