My Ecuadorian nature experience continued after departing Metropolitan Touring’s Mashpi Lodge in the cloud forest with two nights at the JW Marriott Quito before boarding the Santa Cruz II in the Galapagos for a relatively short seven-day (five-and-a-half-day expedition) experience. If you are truly into the wildlife and/or landscapes, a longer journey would be in order as nature in the Galapagos is incredible and very much island-dependent…which, if you think about it, is what makes the Galapagos both unique and incredibly interesting. (There are things I saw on this journey that I didn’t see during my 2017 journey and vice versa.)

BTW, even if you just like photographs: Read On!

At the outset I have to admit that after my luxury experience at Mashpi Lodge, as delivered by Metropolitan Touring, elevated my expectations for my HX Galapagos experience because it is also delivered by Metropolitan Touring, as HX charters Santa Cruz II from Metropolitan Touring and is a minority shareholder, as well.  As such, HX advises what it wants the product to be that is delivered to its guests, while Metropolitan Touring independently takes care of the ship and its technical operations. 

What became clear was the HX focuses on delivering more on “value for money” than a luxury experience and a number of guests told me that is, in fact, why they chose HX. (I did not interview people, but it was more of a source of pride they wanted to share during conversation.) The guests were quite international (Australian, British, Norwegian, German, French, Indian, Canadian, etc.) with few Americans and most were retired. Almost universally the Galapagos experience was combined with travel before or after beyond the pre- and post- HX offerings. Travel with G Adventures, Intrepid, etc. were consistently mentioned and they focus on delivery of experiences, not necessarily on comfort and definitely not luxury. Time and variety mattered more. 

To that end, at the end of the cruise there was the expected charity auction, this time for the HX charities rather than the crew welfare fund. There were only four bidders on anything offered. On what is normally the highest priced item, a chart of the journey signed by the captain, I was the only bidder…so I upped my “bid” to a mere $100. These guests paid for X (ok HX) and weren’t going to give more. Perspective and product focus matters.

The HX Expedition Experience

During our journey, our visits were to the following, but the map shows how little of the Galapagos we actually visited. HX offers three different, somewhat rotating, itineraries, so combining them is quite easy:

• Day 1 – Mosquera Islet
• Day 2 – Punta Pitt (San Cristóbal Island)
• Day 2 – Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (San Cristóbal Island)
• Day 3 – Santa Fe Island
• Day 3 – South Plaza Island
• Day 4 – Puerto Ayora and the Charles Darwin Center (Santa Cruz Island)
• Day 5 – Punta Suarez (Espanola Island)
• Day 6 – Eden Islet (Sant Cruz Island)
• Day 6 – North Seymour Island

Metropolitan Touring/HX provides a more active experience than some, with some very early morning hikes, somewhat challenging hikes, numerous deep-water snorkeling (there was only one snorkeling opportunity from a beach for the novices), and generally three to four activities off the ship per day.  For those less inclined or able, shorter walks and glass-bottom boat cruises are also plentiful. However, I urge you to consider that the Galapagos is not a destination to be saved until your later years if you have the opportunity to visit earlier. For example, on our last day’s zodiac ride two older women expressed their disappointment that they still had not seen a blue-footed boobie, as they had only been able to take the shorter walks, and another was disappointed that, other than the one beach snorkel, there was no opportunity to swim. (Fortunately, on the last morning’s zodiac ride, they did see their boobie, albeit at a bit of a distance!)

For me, obviously, the wildlife experience is more important than the ship, service and food, and which, alas, is why most people come to the Galapagos. That makes the expedition team crucial, not only to show the wildlife, but to make the experience fun and engaging. The Santa Cruz II expedition team varies from quite engaging and knowledgeable to serviceable and not that personable. While some have more experience than others, each has his/her expertise and the opportunity to shine, usually taking advantage of it. However, I had one expedition member, who had a bit of attitude, talked too much and too loudly, and the guests were far more adept at wildlife spotting than he was. Another was more focused on getting through a hike than allowing guests to enjoy it…only to have to kill time at the end because we finished too quickly. On the positive side, there was one guide I (and a few others) tried to get – especially for longer snorkeling experiences – and was not only expert, but charming and funny. (And the only one to receive an extra tip from me.)

All that said, it is important to know that while all of the hotel staff and crew are part of Metropolitan Touring, the expedition staff are, as is the case with pretty much every operator in the Galapagos, freelancers, usually committing to a month at a time, and then moving to other companies…and then, sometimes, back. It is just how things are usually done in the Galapagos. So, my experience may be different than yours. 

There are two days of essentially mandatory visits to a Galapagos tortoise breeding center and the Charles Darwin Center. There really needs to be options offered to opt out of the non-mandatory portions of those days, as other operators offer. There were things that could have been accomplished in an hour that took two-plus and others that were, to my mind, just time fillers. Even just hanging in town for a bit and then back to the ship would have been nice. For example, I didn’t need to see a faux coffee roaster/chocolatier/aguardiente still operator for over an hour. I did, however, repeatedly partake of the aguardiente samples, which helped. But I felt after the volume I drank I need to purchase a bottle! 

Now, before I get into more detail about the ship and onboard experience, I thought I’d show the reason most everyone goes to the Galapagos: The Wildlife!

Rather than burden this article with what wildlife was seen on what island or each snorkeling opportunity (most of the snorkeling was OK, but not truly memorable, as the Galapagos is not a world-class destination for snorkeling yet many come for it), here are some of the highlights:

Red-Footed Boobie

One of the Galapagos Land Iguana species

On hikes and snorkeling there was one thing I found problematic: Some people were clearly physically unable to engage in the more difficult hikes or deep-water snorkeling, yet they insisted on going despite the clear warnings. After repeatedly interfering with others’ experiences by slowing or stopping the activity, thereby jeopardizing the guides’ ability to deliver the experience others were entitled to, and, frankly, putting themselves and others at risk of injury, HX refused to prohibit them from doing so again. Knowing this only emboldened the selfish, rude, and arrogant people and degraded several experiences.  That said, we did pretty much see everything we were intended to see, and fortunately the journey was not curtailed due to an injury. HX needs do better, making sure the vast majority of the guests’ experiences are not compromised by this minority. The arrogant’s money is not more valuable than the rest of the guests. 

The HX Quito Tour and Onboard Experience: 

Taking a step back, upon arriving back in Quito from Mashpi Lodge and my excellent experience there: Ecuador: Quito, Cloud Forests & The Galapagos – Part II: Mashpi Lodge & Reserve, I had the evening on my own.  I could have taken a taxi to a restaurant in town, but with there being strict warnings not to leave the hotel on foot and it pouring rain, it all seemed too much of a hassle; especially after being so well cared for and relaxed over the past four days. So, it was dinner at the hotel and an early night. (Most guests had either spent time in Quito before the start of the tour or arrived by plane that day.  They hotel gives a letter of introduction upon check-in to the JW Marriott Quito.) 

The next morning, after the included breakfast, it was an all-day alleged “city tour” of Quito. Instead, it was a painful one-hour sales pitch at a dumpy, old, chocolate store (with upscale ones literally feet away), followed by two churches, then a 45-minute drive to a marginal lunch (in fairness, a view of a volcanic crater next to it was clouded over), then another drive to the equator for an hour or so of shopping, followed by another 45-minute drive back to the hotel. What a waste of a day! 

To be fair, some loved the shopping and the churches, but as a world traveler, and of Jewish heritage, I have seen more than enough churches, done enough souvenir shopping, and had marginal group lunches. The fact that it was not a “city tour” should have been disclosed, along with an explicit option to forego it. A day wandering the Old City on my own (it is very safe during the day, save pickpockets) would have been a far better option. But, alas, I was not invited on this journey for a city tour, but rather the Galapagos. And, importantly, if I did not go on the “city tour” you wouldn’t know if skipping it might be a better option if you take this Galapagos expedition in the future. (My job isn’t always about the highlights.)

Upon our return to the hotel, I completed the required pre-arrival biosecurity form online and received the needed QR code that is scanned at the airport before going through a second biosecurity scan. I then waited for the included dinner (choosing from a group menu) at the hotel. I ate some of it quickly and went to bed because I had a 4:30 a.m. wake-up to start the reason I was here: The journey to the Galapagos.

Metropolitan Touring/HX did an excellent job getting us there. Bags were to be left outside the room by 5:00 a.m., buffet breakfast was offered, and at 5:50 a.m., we were off for the 45-minute ride to the airport. As we traveled, our guide handed us the completed and paid-for transit cards and our boarding passes. Upon arrival, our guide took us through the first biosecurity check and then check-in before leaving us at security. After security, I found a Priority Pass lounge to wait for our scheduled (not charter) LATAM flight. Our flight, as is normal, stops in Guayaquil before landing in Baltra, with an overall travel time of about four hours.

Upon arrival, we cleared into the Galapagos and then had to wait for our luggage as a dog sniffed each bag. For some reason, it chose my bag (remnants of my Africa expedition, maybe?) , but the officer was nice and efficient and hardly delayed in clearing me and the luggage. I dropped my luggage off with a crew member of Santa Cruz II and then took a short bus ride to the awaiting zodiacs that quickly brought us onboard. (This process is identical to the one I experienced back in 2017.)

I am staying in one of the seven suites on Deck 3. The remainder of the ship consists of fairly compact, but nicely decorated staterooms on Decks 1 and 2. There is a total capacity of 90 guests, including a few triples (including some of the suites). My suite is very well designed and beautifully decorated with plenty of closet and drawer storage and a few 110v and 220v (European) outlets. There is a large desk as well.  My suite has two large picture windows with electric shades. There is no refrigerator or television. The lighting in the suite is quite good, and the air conditioning is excellent.  However, the lighting in the bathroom is dim and a strange color. While that is problematic, the shower is large and the water flow is excellent. The bath towels and amenities are good quality, too. Note that the suite/stateroom doors cannot be locked other than from the inside, but safes are provided, which is an “old school” touch on some expedition ships. NOTE: The crew fitness area was above my suite as is a work area. While it didn’t bother me, usually around 5:30 a.m. I would hear noises from above. 

After dropping my bags, it was time for orientation, the muster, and lunch. Menus for all meals are shown on a website accessed through a QR code, as are the daily activities; very consistent with the Mashpi Lodge (also a Metropolitan Touring operation). And that brings me to an interesting (at least for me) point: As HX charters the ship from Metropolitan Touring, all of the operations are performed by Metropolitan Touring but adjusted to meet HX’s requirements as far as culinary and hotel service levels.

Santa Cruz II is one of the largest ships operating in the Galapagos, which requires ships to carry no more than 100 guests. She has a casual bar/expedition talk lounge aft on Deck 3, which also has a nice outside area with comfortable seating and a small grill for events. (They have separate areas for talks in other languages, as needed.)

Deck 2 forward is the Science Center and Library, where you meet before heading out on expedition, and where some talks are held.

Deck 2 aft holds two hot tubs and two self-serve washer-dryers. Deck 1 is where Reception is located, and below that is the Restaurant. 

Zodiac boarding, wetsuit storage, etc, all happen on the exterior aft decks. 

There is also a small fitness center on Deck 4. 

Smoking is only permitted on the small Deck 4 outside area.

(Note: I have read some reviews that assert Santa Cruz II is not well-maintained. That is simply untrue. She is in great shape and actually far better than I expected.)

The included Wi-Fi varies from rocket fast to quite slow, but manageable. If you need a second sign-on it will be provided at no cost. And you will need to sign-on in order to access the paperless web “app” that provides the daily activities for the day and an approximate schedule for the next. It does not give you much information, including what wildlife you can anticipate seeing – this should be provided – so use it for timings only.

There is also an Open Bar policy with a limited, but high quality, offering of various spirits ranging from Gin & Tonics to Pisco Sours. Wines, however, are limited to Ecuadorean wines which are quaffable in both the white and red varietals offered. 

I have to say that the hotel staff does their job and the majority are polite, but no more. (I never even met my room steward.) There are but a few smiles in the Restaurant, but the executive staff and Captain were more engaging.

I believe if you have a great waiter and marginal food, you may well still have a nice dining experience. And if you have great food with a marginal waiter, you may well not have one. However, during my HX experience I had neither.

The waitstaff had very little interaction after a welcome as you entered the Restaurant. Perfunctory taking of your order or asking if you would like a drink. I expected more after my stay at Mashpi, but that is notably and admittedly at a luxury level and there is no pretext that this experience is. 

However, and honestly, after a couple of days, it was aggravating which led to resentment and, if it wasn’t for my enjoyable tablemates, a feeling of “Let me finish my meal and get the heck out of here as clearly I am more of a burden than a valued guest.” What really got me is that not-so-coincidentally when the Tip Box appeared, so did the smiles and a bit more elevated service. OK, that was limited to anticipating ketchup was need with your pre-ordered hamburger or asking if another Coke was desired…but even then, it only after the glass was empty.

I have found the meals to be more sustenance than a dining experience. Generally, breakfast is as expected, along with eggs and omelets cooked to order. The fruits offered are the same every day and does get boring. Lunch buffets offer a soup, three main options, vegetables and rice or potatoes, and desserts. (Some lunches I have not found something I wanted, so it was vegetables and potatoes.) Dinners are plated and tablecloths are used. You have to order your dinner at lunch. There are a couple of starters and three main courses plus a “Comfort Menu” of more standard fare, including things like chicken and pizza (not bad for ship pizza). One night I saw more hamburgers (they are good) than anything off the regular menu. (Again, ordering dinner at lunch is awkward, and I had a feeling like I settled for, rather than desired, something. How could I know what I wanted?) ‘Nuf said.

Reflections

I truly enjoyed the more active experience with, for example, an early morning hike, followed by a longer deep-water snorkel, and an afternoon longer hike. Santa Cruz II is not set up for spa appointments or the like, so if there isn’t a talk on a subject of interest, there isn’t much to do. Granted if the weather was sunnier and warmer, time on the outside decks would have been an option. The ship itself was very nice and well-maintained. My suite was very comfortable and I enjoyed the space, storage and large windows, as well as the included wi-fi, bar, and gratuities. Honestly, I was pleasantly surprised. 

But you know me and service is key. When the staff isn’t engaged it just brings you down. I’m not sure why even garnering a (false) smile when a sailor assists you on or off a zodiac, you see an attendant in the hallway, or your waiter is taking your order, was so difficult to see; especially when I always…always…say “Hello” and “Thanks”. It really colored my experience. I know it can’t be the length of the journey because you can go on a seven-day Royal Caribbean cruise and the staff is incredibly energetic. 

On this expedition there were only forty-seven of the possible ninety guests, so there was no sense of crowding. However, if the ship was full, every dining table would be full (we were discouraged from changing tables…hence our waiter), and I am not sure how expeditions would be run. Capacity at each location is, obviously, limited so if you didn’t get one of the better guides, I am not sure what the experience would be or what the timings would be. 

Fortunately, we saw most all we could have. That said, we were given a nice hardcover book on the Galapagos Big 15, but were never told which of the 15 we would not see on this expedition (because they live on other islands). In fact, we were never told what we would see the next day and were only informed by our guide when out and about about what we would obviously see, but not what else to look out for. For example, on this expedition I saw the Waved Albatross and Galapagos Hawk, while on my earlier expedition including other islands I saw the Galapagos Penguin and some spectacular landscapes. 

As I mentioned HX provides an active experience with an international guest profile focused on what they perceive as “value for money”. Whether it is that I don’t think matters as more upscale experience is counter to most of their mindsets. Remember what the first thing you see on my website? It is the phrase, “What is Your Luxury?” And for the HX guest, this is their luxury.

Do I wish my experience was as warm and fuzzy as a Magnificent Frigatebird chick? Of course I do. But what I can tell you, with emphatic positivity, the vast majority of the guests on this HX Galapagos experience enjoyed themselves from start to finish. The issue, for me, is, well, Me.  I have different expectations and desires; ones that Metropolitan Touring’s Mashpi Lodge cloud forest experience exceeded but HX didn’t.