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Having settled in the Via Natura’s motoryacht MY Hermes expedition yacht, it is easy to say that a “five-day”, but really three substantive day experience, on this ship and the Galapagos just isn’t enough!

I have skipped a couple of snorkeling and one kayaking activities (and the ones I did were great) just to better understand the ship, experience what she has to offer, and get some work done. Personally, being in the Galapagos screams getting in the water, not on top of it, so I’d skip kayaking, but let me not get ahead of myself. (I did miss “another” snorkel with penguins and sea lions, a couple of small sharks, and some golden rays, but I did what I had to do. LOL!)

As I wrote in my first two articles:  

• Goldring Travel Experiences Via Natura’s Galapagos Ultra-Luxury Mega Catamaran: Hermes
• Goldring Travel Experiences Via Natura’s Galapagos Ultra-Luxury Mega Catamaran: Hermes – Part II: A Luxury Yacht? A Small Cruise Ship? An Expedition Ship? Maybe All Three!  

MY Hermes is clearly head and shoulders above all of the competition I am aware of, as it provides a significant level of luxury in every respect, both on the ship and in the delivery of an active and substantive nature experience. You are experiencing the Galapagos four times a day, either on a hike, a snorkel, or a zodiac ride, plus a kayaking option on one day on this short trip. Meanwhile, onboard, you are provided with three-times-a-day servicing of your room, three high-quality meals plus snacks, massage services, laundry, open bar, and a very comfortable and spacious suite with a private balcony. When you return from the beach, your sand shoes are taken, truly made sand-free, and stored for you in a locker. (For those who experience sand in their luggage that never seems to disappear, this is a blessing!).

Having been on three prior ships in the Galapagos, my expectations on the culinary side had moderated. However, MY Hermes exceeded all of them, from variety, presentation, taste, and delivery. The breakfast buffet offers the standard fare (freshly made omelets, hard-boiled and scrambled eggs, waffles, bacon, fresh fruit, etc.), Ecuadorian dishes and vegetables that change each morning, and a variety of juices and “health” beverages. Lunches are even more elevated with fresh fish and meat (usually pork) options along with a variety of carbs, including potatoes, pastas, rice, polenta, and more, as well as a fresh “build your own” side salad.

The quality of the dishes, whether plated or barbecued, is top-notch and easily competes or exceeds what you receive on a luxury cruise line, though the dishes may not have as many elements.

Dinner is a true dining experience, dining on tables that are spaced apart (or put together if you desire) with linens and proper red and white wine glasses. Serice relaxed yet formal, giving guests time to talk with each other about the day’s experiences, rather than a quick pour of house wine and delivery of the meal. You sit and are given the beverage of your choice (wine or your chosen cocktail), a moment to review the options on your four-course menu of the day (again, always offering fresh fish such as scorpion fish, grouper, etc.), and a meat. (There are many vegetables offered, so taking care of vegetarian diets is not a problem.) Portions are perfectly sized, so you don’t feel overwhelmed but also so you leave the table more than satisfied. (Of course, if you want more courses, that isn’t a problem.)

I was given the opportunity to have a short reflexology massage, and it was so good that I arranged a longer, deep-tissue massage that ranked among the top of my onboard experiences. I did not try out the hammam because there just wasn’t enough time. And, the laundry service was efficient, with my clothes all coming back the next day, ironed, on hangers or in tissue paper.

And what can I say about the butlers? They are the best “at sea” butlers I have experienced. Polished, friendly, aware of how to treat each guest, intuitive, and eager to please. I do have to say that having them and the staff greet you after each activity with an appropriate warm or cold hand towel and drink, as well as a snack just as you disembark your zodiac is a great yachty touch. (They are all not just put out, but served!) Your butler will spray your pillows with lavender scent before bed and leave a bottle should you want more, and will even inquire as to whether you need a bag to store wet clothes or hiking shoes at the end of your journey. Honestly, on classic cruises, butlers are not really butlers. On MY Hermes, they truly are!

I won’t go over my suite or public areas again (see Part II), but note that they all work more than well, providing a classy, sleek, comfortable experience wherever you go on the ship, and are well maintained. It is hard to believe MY Hermes has been operating for a full year as all, but some of the outdoor cushions, look brand new.

Of course, for me, the delivery of the Galapagos is what matters the most. And while it is hard not to be amazed by all it offers, having now been there four times, I can authoritatively tell you that the quality of your guide can make a huge difference. I intentionally stuck with one guide, Edwin, as much as I could. He brought – with incredible and contagious enthusiasm –  such depth to everything from the geology on each island, to past history and current events, to nature and evolution. (Other guests preferred Pablo and his style.)

The downside is that in the Galapagos, the guides rule and, as such, the best guides essentially make up their own rules including which ships they will work with and how long they will work (usually short one or two weeks at a time). This means that on anything longer than my short expedition, you may have a variety of guides. I would anticipate that while you might find a favorite, the different approaches will probably elevate your experience and knowledge. (For those who started their journey a few days before me, they had four different guides.)

One thing Edwin did when possible was to have a “Ten Talk” at the daily briefing, going into a bit more detail on a subject than he could when hiking or in a zodiac. The guests loved this. In fact, Edwin also gave a half-hour afternoon talk (“Arrival of the Species”), and the guests craved more. I think Via Natura should add more of both types of talks. This would be more consistent with expeditions offered elsewhere in the world and, let’s face it, most folks on expeditions seek knowledge and a more in-depth understanding.

My second day brought me to Espinosa Point on Fernanda Island with its spectacular lava fields, thousands of marine iguanas (including newly hatched ones), Galapagos penguins, racer snakes and hawks, as well as blue herons, and beautiful Candelabra cactus. I hadn’t been there since 2017, and fortunately, not much had changed, which is a tribute to the efforts to protect the islands.

After a morning snorkel, I skipped the afternoon one to enjoy the ship, but it was then off on a zodiac (locally called a panga), where, among other things, it was fascinating watching a pelican casually fishing by repeatedly filling his huge pouch with water, squeezing it out, and then swallowing his catch. More blue-footed boobies, noddy terns, flightless cormorants, a lone penguin, and some young sea lions playing near the zodiac.

The next morning, we were off in search of Fur Seals, the only other species of pinnipeds in the Galapagos. The lava beaches were spectacular as we searched and eventually found our goal. By this point, wandering the beach and seeing another land iguana wasn’t exciting for most, but Edwin enthusiastically came up with some great tidbits that made it most interesting.

After skipping the afternoon snorkel, it was back on the zodiac with Edwin for the history of buccaneers that haunted the islands, the search for drinkable water (and some cool geology to go along with it), another lone penguin, and then Nasca boobies. I think these are the most beautiful boobies.

And with that, it was time for the farewell cocktail party. Already? Say it ain’t so!! But MY Hermes was not done with the expedition. On my final morning, with a 6:00 AM start, it was off to North Seymour Island for a quick one-hour casual hike. I had been there at least twice before, but this early in the morning, it was spectacular (I seem to be using that word a lot.) Hundreds of Magnificent Frigate Birds were in flight; sometimes only feet from our heads. Swallow-tail gulls (the only nocturnal gull), blue-footed boobies, and sea lion pups rounded out my last experience. Though a Yellow-Crowned Night Heron was the one that was the last to bid me a fond farewell!

For as much as I’ve seen and experienced on this very short Galapagos experience, I know there is so much more to see and experience. Wandering through nesting Blue-footed Boobies and Red-Footed Boobies, Waved Albatross, other birds and marine life, other amazing landscapes, and beautiful hikes, among other things. And, of course, the chance for things to slow down, to really observe rather than first spot the wildlife and scenery, spend time relaxing on unique beaches, and take advantage of all that MY Hermes has to offer. I recommend a minimum of seven days, but with so many of the Galapagos Islands, for the nature lovers, fourteen days is the way to go.

Back to the ship for a quick shower, breakfast, and readying my luggage before our 8:15 AM zodiac ride to the airport and the final goodbyes to the naturalists. MY Hermes affords access to the VIP lounge, but after check-in, I was on my own. What?! No staff? No butler? No guide? Somehow, I managed, but it was a rude awakening…but in the best way.

As an aside, I do have to say that I was sincerely disappointed that, after the near-flawless experience, some of the passengers (I no longer consider them guests) either refused to pay the actually kinda mandatory gratuities to the crew or naturalists or paid less than the suggested ten percent of the fare. Folks, you don’t get staff and naturalists of the quality we enjoyed by not paying the gratuities, which are counted on as income. (Fortunately, some guests overcompensated in their generosity.)

Depending on your airline of choice on the mainland, you can disembark in Guayaquil or Quito. As I am beholden to United Airlines (isn’t it supposed to be beholden to its clients?), I flew to Quito, arriving around 3:00 PM. In the past, I booked a day room and then the 12:35 AM flight to Houston. This time, however, I thought I’d try booking a room and then take the 7:25 AM flight so that I could get some work done, have a proper night’s sleep, and arrive the same day, just later.

I booked (again) a room at the Holiday Inn Quito Airport using my American Express Platinum Card-provided status, combined with a travel agent rate of $95, and was upgraded to a suite with a complimentary glass of wine. The hotel has room service or, as an alternative, a nice buffet and à la carte menu. I went with the buffet and my last local Club lager beer. While I used the included airport shuttle on my return, I grabbed a $10 taxi on the way there for convenience. Note: There is a brand new Courtyard by Marriott right at the airport, but I had a great rate, knowing the hotel was good, and there was minimal hassle. The next morning, after a full night’s sleep, I was pleasantly surprised to find another brand-new feature at the Quito Airport: a modern VIP lounge that opened just a week ago. What a huge improvement!

Arriving in Houston after the morning flight was also a wonderful surprise. As I was sitting in Seat 1B, I was the first off the plane and, believe it or not, the only passenger in the Immigration Hall.  Using my Mobile Global Entry app, I didn’t even break stride as I passed the immigration officer. And my luggage appeared less than ten minutes later. Obviously, I think this could well be the way to go.

And, let’s face it, as good as my experience was on Via Natura’s MY Hermes (and you know I disdain hyperbole) and, of course, the Galapagos, I just might be returning. Make no mistake, experiencing the Galapagos on MY Hermes is not inexpensive, but compared to some name-brand offerings, it offers solid value both onboard and on expedition.