My Antarctica21 “Fly the Drake” expedition on Magellan Explorer started out with a bit of luck; that is, in addition to being lucky to be returning to Antarctica for my ninth expedition!
My plan was to:
- Fly for 1.5 hours from Tahoe to Los Angeles, (2-hour layover)
- Then fly 3.5 hours from Los Angeles to Houston, (4-hour layover)
- Then fly 9.5 hours from Houston to Santiago, Chile,
- Then spend a day in Santiago,
- Then fly 3.5 hours to Punta Arenas, Chile,
- Then overnight as the start of my Antarctica21 expedition,
- Then finally, take my last 2.0-hour flight from Punta Arenas to King George Island, South Shetland Islands, Antarctica to board the Magellan Explorer/
Are you exhausted yet?
Well, I actually took a look at flying into Santiago a day earlier, using that extra day as both a workday and a bit of a recovery period. When I saw that not only were the flights less expensive – literally covering the cost of my hotel stay – and, I had a better chance of getting an upgrade (something that has become a real challenge on United Airlines), I jumped on it. Fortunately, my luck continued because, as it happens, Tahoe received over three feet of snow starting the night before my original departure, so I would not have made it out.
My luck continued as my flights actually were on schedule and I was upgraded on the 9.5-hour flight from Houston to Santiago. Because I was confirmed in Polaris class, I was able to use the United Polaris Lounges in Los Angeles and Houston; taking the opportunity to dine there. (The sit-down restaurants have a very limited menu, but having table service in a segregated area in these seemingly always overcrowded lounges makes a difference.)
As a result, once I was onboard the overnight flight to Santiago I was able to have my whisky, relax, skip dinner, and then enjoy an ice cream sundae before settling in for a sleep.
Upon arrival – with my luggage! – I took an Uber to my hotel. Taxis were available but the drivers were a bit aggressive, yet polite enough. Yes, Ubers are a bit more expensive, but you don’t have to worry about any scams or language barriers…and in Santiago they both are very real issues. (Note: I did find throughout my stay in Santiago that Uber Black did not mean your vehicle was of higher quality or faster; just more expensive.)
Okay, I did something I never do: I stayed at a standard Marriott hotel. I figured it was cheap ($350 total for two nights), and I could use my upgrades to get an Executive Level two-room suite, which would ease the painful decision. The hotel isn’t located in the most convenient location, but there is Uber. Honestly, I don’t know that it was a great decision. The hotel is definitely showing its age, and the executive lounge was filled with very loud Brits and Americans making it a painful, and definitely not local, experience. (I did get to twice say hello in the elevator to my United flight attendants who were also staying there.)
The first evening I revisited a restaurant I enjoyed back in 2019. Peumayan, which focuses on the cuisine inspired by the native people of Chile, has risen to being rated as one of the top restaurants in Santiago. It remains a charming, rustic, place and my being seated al fresco in its courtyard added to the ambiance. After starting with an obligatory pisco sour – the server, as seems to be universally accepted now, admitting Peruvian pisco is better – it was time for the six-course/six wine tasting menu. It was a relaxing and delicious 2.5 hours filled with some pretty unusual, earthy, flavors. The wines were all local, but none made much of an impression either way.
After a full day of work, I was really looking forward to dining at Borago; noted as one of the 50 Best Restaurants. After reconfirming my 9:00 p.m. reservation at 2:15 p.m., I checked my emails at 5:30 p.m. I was advised my reservation was canceled. No phone call. Nothing. I called about a dozen times and nobody answered. Eventually, I received a WhatsApp message essentially saying, “Oh Well.” What I eventually figured out was that it was Valentine’s Day and a table for one by a foreigner wasn’t going to happen. Unfortunately, despite every effort on my part, the term “honor” was not part of Borago’s ethos, and – again being Valentine’s Day, I could not get a reservation anywhere else…including the Marriott lobby bar! (Now, if I hadn’t cheaped out on my hotel, I could have wandered the neighborhood and found something. Noted!)
It was no great loss since I had a great dining experience the night before and needed to be up at 4:00 a.m. for my early morning flight to Punta Arenas to start my Antarctica21 expedition. Why did I decide on such an early flight? LATAM is the airline that is infamous for delayed and canceled flights…and it did not disappoint. True to its reputation, after literally walking the entire airport from security to Gate B07 and boarding was to start five minutes ago, the monitor changed to a different flight. Huh? Fortunately, the biggest convenience was walking back across the entire airport to Gate A18…no, make that, A20…with the captain and flight crew, who took it as a matter of course. Fortunately, we arrived only thirty minutes late. (Nothing like padding the time schedule!)
I was met at the airport by an Antartica21 representative who handed me off for my included transfer to the also included and well-located, if not a bit worn, Hotel Cabo de Hornos. With my room ready, the Antarctica21 representative told me to settle in and then around 2:00 p.m. head over to Antarctica21’s Explorer’s House for a biosecurity check of my gear and to pick up my muck boots so I had them to wear on the flight to Antarctica the next day.
While the hotel was OK, Explorer’s House is extraordinary! Absolutely gorgeous and, to be sure, a place I wish I could spend more time in.
Anyway, after getting my tasks completed, I dropped my gear off at the hotel and then headed over to Shackelton’s Bar as I do when in Punta Arenas. I walked into the hotel and right to the old wood-paneled room that just wreaks “history” …except it was not filled with non-descript dining tables. Huh? Well, the bar was moved to a sort of wintergarden area, though the wonderfully worn leather chairs were still being used. Nice, but…
After a couple of pisco sours I decided to have lunch there rather than walk to the local fish market where there are some small, but excellent, restaurants. Marinated Lamb Tongue and King Crab Chowder were quite good, though not quite with the real local charm I love. Such problems!
After a short nap, it was time to head back to Explorer’s House for an orientation and group dinner. It was really well done. Not too long and answered everyone’s questions. One thing that was either a continuation of my luck, or another than my solo Valentine’s Day dinner fiasco, was Antarctica21’s hyping everyone up about two things: The excellent chance that the flight to King George Island could be delayed – possibly into the evening – but when it was time to go (morning, noon, or night) it was time to go; and, that it was definitely going to be very raining and wet, so to be sure to protect your gear.
One surprise: In addition to the now expected contingent of Chinese guests, there is a Chinese film crew making a documentary on the effects of climate change on the environment. Seeing cameras and sound engineers was a bit of a surprise, but so far they seem quite respectful of everyone’s privacy and expedition experience..and very friendly. (I have had a bit of chat with a few and, ya never know, I may be part of it!)
After a nice cocktail period and dinner (I had very good hake, but lamb shank, and a vegetarian option were also offered), it was announced that we would have a 4:15 a.m. wake-up, a 5:00 a.m. breakfast, and be on the bus to the airport at 6:00 a.m. Somehow I am sure they knew that 30 minutes earlier, but I guess just in case, it was a good way to set expectations if the weather unexpectedly changed; as is typical in Antarctica. (I did come to learn that 80 knot winds dropped to 40 knots overnight.)
In the morning, things went off like clockwork. I was on the first bus, checked in, flew through security, and had just settled into a seat by the gate chatting with two of the expedition team when the boarding announcement was made. When they said, “We may have to move quickly,” they weren’t kidding! Time to put on my waterproof pant shell and my muck boots, and store my shoes in my carry-on, so that I was ready for the zodiac ride to the Magellan Explorer when we landed.
We were airborne at 8:00 a.m., landed at 10:00 a.m., immediately loaded into a small bus for the short ride to shore, donned a life jacket, boarded the zodiac, and despite 40-knot winds and a good bit of spray, I was onboard by 10:45 a.m. and was taken directly to my stateroom. Perfect!
With Antarctica21, the OG of “Fly the Drake” having delivered the experience about as good as it gets, it was time to take a moment and take in: Antarctica.
Next up: The ship and initial impressions.
