Sea Cloud Cruises – Goldring Travel Checks out Sea Cloud Spirit in Costa Rica & Panama: “A License to Chill”

With a nod to Jimmy Buffett (and James Bond), sailing on Sea Cloud Spirit gives you a “License to Chill.” 

The romance of sailing is all around you on Sea Cloud Spirit. There is something about the silence of the wind in her massive sails and the calming sound of the water lapping against her hull, with a warm, humid, breeze in your face, and the gentle rocking of the ship as we sail at four knots or so.  It calls for you to just relax and think of nothing. To Chill.

It is important to understand that a Sea Cloud experience is more about the mind than the matter. This sailing experience will charm some, however, it is not for everyone. There are a few other American travel writers onboard and some of their comments – while all complimenting Sea Cloud Spirit’s uniqueness – bring out their “cruise” perspective. I’ve heard them say, there should be a pool, a hot tub, more activities during the day, dance music at night, etc.

To my mind, they just don’t understand this product.  There are ships that provide those things, but this ain’t it. Sea Cloud wants to be better known in the North American market, but it also doesn’t want to be lost in the homogenous nature it can be. 

As a French travel writer said to me while we were enjoying an early morning coffee, “I would love to sail her on a transatlantic.”  (Me too!)

So far our travels have mostly been through Costa Rica. I had only been to Limon, on the Caribbean side for a day while on a cruise about twenty years ago, so I came with my only perspective being how many younger friends of mine raved about the country. Let’s just say I was not quite as impressed.  But that may be due to my experience being limited to ship tours…and I think we all know how I am not a fan of them.

On our second day, I arrived in Playa Panama, Costa Rica. Sea Cloud Spirit did offer a variety of tours, but none was perfect for me. A hotel day pass for those who want to continue to chill and use a pool, a catamaran cruise with snorkeling, a day at a hacienda (with zip-lining or trail horses), or a boat trip in Palo Verda National Park and sugar cane presentation. I went with the latter as I wanted to venture into Costa Rica’s famous national parks.

I pause to note that Costa Rica is very proud of its culture of environmental responsibility from alternative energy courses to recycling, etc. There are very high education and reading proficiency rates and an overall belief in kindness to others. It is regularly mentioned and is a great source of pride.

We arrived on shore via zodiac, so you need to take your shoes and socks off before landing and then put them on again once you cross the beach.  A bit rustic for those expecting a cruise experience but pretty typical for a sailing one.

I did enjoy my brief one-hour(ish) boat ride, but I had to first endure a very well done, but for me painful, faux walk back in time acting tour of how sugar cane was processed and how tortillas were made. (I noted the hacienda’s product placements everywhere.) And then, after the boat ride, a return to the same venue for a tasty lunch and a beer.

The wildlife we encountered on the boat was not new to me, but it did make for a bit of an enjoyable photo safari with a pleasant guide.

Back on board with plenty of time to relax, it was then the Captain’s Welcome Gala with guest chef, Cindy Hutson. This is one of the very few “smart/elegant” evenings where a jacket for men is the rule.

The Restaurant, like the Lido, is a combination of tables for four or more with plated service generally being four or five courses. For those that wish to dine in an air-conditioned space, this is it and is made available on a few non-formalish nights as an option. It is also where an extensive breakfast buffet that will meet any guest’s desires is provided each morning…including make-your-own mimosas.

I find the dearth of tables for two troublesome. For couples and some, like me, that prefer to dine along without making small talk – or, here, possibly not wishing to force the less linguistically talented German passengers work to speak English. (I am hopeless at other languages, no matter how hard I try.)

With another Day Under The Sails following, Sea Cloud Spirit offers lectures on a variety of topics; some in German and some in English, as well as Engine Room and Bridge Tours. There is an “open bridge” policy onboard, so if you would like more of a private look around, just walk in.

I do have to say that buffets in the Lido, whether for lunch or dinner, are my favorite. The fresh fish, some sort of poultry or meat (a wide range of offerings from jerked chicken to schnitzel), an extensive salad bar, and numerous side dishes of both German and international cuisine are always offered. Dessert consists of two types of ice cream and small pastries.

I would recommend ceiling fans in the Lido, as when the wind is still, it is pretty (very?) warm.  After a few days, you become more accustomed to the humidity and heat, but air movement would make it more pleasant for everyone without taking away from the aesthetic.  A few chairs with side tables on the Sun Deck would also be nice for sitting out under the stars while sipping a late-night whisky or rum and tonic.

Next up was Quepos, Costa Rica; one of the key tourist areas in Costa Rica. Sea Cloud Spirit offered a variety of tours in both the morning and afternoon. With all of the talk about Manuel Antonio National Park, my choice was pretty much made for me. I was, however, warned by my driver to the ship, the guide the day before, and online comments, that it has become very touristic.  However, I have to see it to believe it…and tales of whoa were only partially true. 

This is one way Sea Cloud Spirit provides a luxury experience under the category of “What is Your Luxury?”.  Because of the anticipated crowds, the tender to shore would be at 6:00 a.m. with a light breakfast served starting at 5:30 a.m. so that we would literally be the first people in the park. That was an excellent idea!

The guide was a bit loud and repetitive, so I and my French colleague wandered off on our own. Once ahead of every, the sounds of the birds and the beauty of the area became more apparent. Yes, you are walking on a well-worn gravel road and a few walkways, so it isn’t like you are really wandering through a national park on a hike, but it was OK.  And since it is designed to eventually have you wind up where you started, getting lost isn’t an option.

Eventually, I found myself at the beach, where – when the group would arrive there would be about thirty minutes to swim – but then. Fortunately, I was the first person there; not even a footprint. It was beautifully tranquil with a lone pelican swimming off to one side and a bevy of crabs racing on the beach on the other. A Spotted Sandpiper dipped her neck awkwardly trying to scoop up breakfast. 

I pulled myself away to take the walkway through the mangroves, but it was taped off. I asked a worker if it was OK to go under the tape and I think he said it was OK (that’s my story) and off I went. Unfortunately, it was dead low tide during the dry season, so there was virtually nothing to see.

By then I figured I should start to loop back around to find my group…and then the noise of hundreds of tourists broke what had been a most enjoyable and tranquil morning.  They just kept coming. Ugh. 

About thirty minutes later I returned to the beach finding both my group and dozens of other people…along with lots of capuchin monkeys – as they follow the tourists – with some posing for photos while their mates are opening unsuspecting tourists’ backpacks, if not stealing them outright.   All I could think was, “Get me the hell outta here!”

The guide gave me a meeting time, so I wandered off again. I saw a decent amount of wildlife, all considered. However, I arrived at the appointed time and place, but saw she and half the group were already out of the park. Seriously?

Back on board the serenity of Sea Cloud Spirit I canceled my afternoon “hike” and understand from a few that went, I made the right decision. I spent some time working, wandering on deck, and then enjoying the Caribbean Dinner Buffet – again an excellent and varied experience – before heading off to bed.

Speaking of working, Sea Cloud has a rather antiquated approach to Wi-Fi. It includes 1GB of data per suite. This is approximately the amount of data one needs to download the Daily Program. (You can request paper copies be delivered to your suite.) If you want more data you pay for either 5GB (20 Euros) or 10GB (35 Euros). For light use you probably can get away with one 10GB purchase. But if you want to be Insta-Famous or actually work, you will spend significantly more. And you cannot share the data between devices, so data for your phone and data for your laptop. With my international phone plane with T-Mobile which is great on land, I will spend 70 Euros and my laptop will burn through at least 105 Euros.

As the amounts are relatively insignificant combined with the fact that most guests purchase additional data, WiFi should be included. Heck, just add 100 Euros to the cost of each person’s sailing and the guests won’t feel the only nickel-and-diming I’ve experienced and Sea Cloud will provide a seamless service.

Speaking of nickel-and-diming, Sea Cloud tracts drinks so you will be asked your stateroom when ordering (until the bartenders get to know your stateroom). This is not to charge you but for some sort of inventorying. I don’t like it as it seems like I am being monitored. Eventually, it just becomes part and parcel of getting a cocktail, but…

We arrived at Puerto Jimenz, Costa Rica – our final stop in the country – where I had a quite enjoyable nature walk through the grounds of the Bontanika Hotel with an excellent guide. The highlight for me was seeing two beautiful Fiery Billed Aracaris – a type of toucan. January is the beginning of its breeding season, and the two of them made it well-known!

After our hike, we were given a light lunch and the opportunity to use the hotel’s facilities. While the hotel was quite nice and I am sure some took advantage of the pool (there isn’t one on the ship), most of us just wanted to go back to the comfort and tranquility of Sea Cloud Spirit for a mid-afternoon departure heading to Panama. 

There was a late afternoon rum tasting, coupled with some snacks created by the guest chef. It totally slipped my mind as I napped on my balcony.  (I later saw the rums offered and I had previously tried all of them…not all at the same time, though!). Oooops!

In the evening you were given a choice of dining in the Restaurant or out on the Lido (just let the ship know by 5:00 p.m.). Generally, you get one additional course in the Restaurant. As expected, the Lido was quite full and the Restaurant was most of the Americans onboard.  For me, you’d have to drag me into the Restaurant if the Lido is open!

The next morning we arrived at Isla Coiba, Panama, previously the home of a very notorious prison.  However, on this day it was a day for the beach and some snorkeling.  I arrived on one of the first zodiacs and had the beach essentially to myself.  I found a nice spot under a tree (not a coconut palm!) near my fellow lawyers…I mean vultures.

I laid out my towel, put my backpack down, and wandered toward the water. That was until I saw a capuchin monkey eyeing my bag.  So much for that and I moved my gear over to a hut where everyone else was placing their gear.

I wanted to see how the snorkeling tour worked with the guest biologist. Someone said my description was like “Subway Snorkeling”: Everyone bumping into each other and jockeying for position without regard to the people around them. That, combined with a highly degraded small bit of reef, cloudy water, extreme low tide, and less than brilliant sun, I can say I did a bit of snorkeling…and no more. (Next time I will break the rules and snorkel on my own!)

To add insult to injury, when I returned to shore there were at least a dozen boats that had brought people to our previously “private” beach. Time to head back to the oasis of Sea Cloud Spirit!

The Sea Cloud Spirit’s staff and crew really do go out of their way to make everyone’s individual sailing experience the best possible for each person. And it showed, yet again, because this was Superbowl Night!

The staff transformed the elegant Lounge into a fantastic Sports Bar!

A huge screen, adorned with American flags on each side, was just the start. I feared the game would be shown in German, but it was the American version with all the American commercials!  Even better, each table was provided with delicious guacamole and salsa, along with tortilla chips, potato chips, pretzels, and popcorn. Serving dishes with chicken tenders and hotdogs wrapped in bacon were placed on either side. In the middle, a champagne bowl filled with a variety of beers, wine, and soft drinks.

And, as halftime neared orders were taken for hamburgers (with bacon, sauteed onions, and cheese), hotdogs, and club sandwiches.

Add that the one of the most exciting Superbowl games I can remember (even the staff were into it) it was almost the perfect event. 

Why not perfect?  With 19 seconds left in the game, Kansas City was nearing the goal line to either tie or win the game…and the satellite signal failed!  Ya can’t make it up.  Not to worry, Google let us know KC tied the game and Sea Cloud Spirit’s IT wizard had things back to normal for an amazing overtime.

At just past the halfway point of this sailing experience, I have to say that I am pleasantly surprised. While I have had a bit of a photo safari and some beach time, the reality is for me Sea Cloud Spirit is the destination!  She doesn’t have all the bells and whistles of Icon of the Seas (or its roller coast, water park, and villages), but she has the heart of a fine sailing ship and easily captures a sailor’s desires.

“Haul the sheet in as we ride on the wind that our
Forefathers harnessed before us.” Jimmy Buffett (Rest in Peace)