Sea Cloud Cruises – Goldring Travel Checks out Sea Cloud Spirit in Costa Rica & Panama: The Ship is the Destination!

As my sailing experience winds down, it just keeps popping into my head: Sea Cloud Spirit is the destination!

As each day goes by, whether a Day Under the Sails or a stop along the way, my favorite thing to do is be on the ship. In my beautiful suite or wandering the decks or sipping on a cocktail on the Lido, Sea Cloud Spirit is not only comfortable, but comforting. (I do wish there were some tables and chairs, not just lounges, on the Sun Deck.)

As I wander the decks, the difference between deckies and sailors is starkly apparent, with the sailors having both a bit of a swagger and the muscles – from being, well, sailors – to go along with it. But no matter how tough they seem on the outside, a few break out a nod or a smile.

However, some all but lost all that swagger one evening when about half of the crew became the “Shanty Singers” belting out ten different sailing songs…and those sailors became young kids having a really good time. (And the staff and crew all donned somewhat hokey but classic sailor outfits.)

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After another Day Under the Sails, there was another amazing Dinner Deck Buffet. This time, a huge tuna was brought onto the deck and processed right in front of us! Tuna sashimi, tuna tartare, and tuna steaks were all on the menu. Absolutely delicious. Oh, there were plenty of side dishes, but not for me. The tuna was more than enough.

There is a relaxed nature of sailing that permeates most of one’s experience onboard.  One of the most charming for me is that dinner is always announced by the ringing of a bell mounted by a clock.  Now, one would think that with all the German precision, when dinner is announced for 7:30 p.m. or 8:00 pm., the bell would ring at 7:30 p.m. or 8:00 p.m.  Not Once!  7:26 p.m. or 8:02 p.m., it didn’t matter…and it was just plain charming. (Whenever I mentioned it to the German crew, they looked shocked…and then laughed.)

I do, however, have a few criticisms that are easy fixes, but really need to be addressed.  First, there is a very creative selection of included wines. The problem is most of them were just not good. There were a few solid ones, such as an Assyrtiko from Santorini and a nice Sardinian one.  (I opted for the included Pommery champagne more often than not, so it is not like I suffered.  I also found myself having more pre-dinner cocktails because the wine just missed too often.)  While the premium wine list is equally creative and has some very good selections at reasonable prices, this disconnect with the quality of the cuisine just doesn’t make sense.  

There also needs to be a significant improvement in the bread and pastry offerings. The same ordinary, tasteless, precut bread (brown and white) is pretty much the only offering other than at breakfast. And the breakfast pastries are the same frozen ones every day. This is such an easy fix.

The other culinary issue for me – other than the guest chef…oh wait for that!…is that some nice cheeses are offered at breakfast and lunch, but the dinner cheese plate is the same every night and underwhelming. Again, an easy fix.

And then there is a guest chef onboard, Cindy Hutson. Honestly, unimpressive would be kind (ex. inedible ceviche…containing only little fish).  I can’t blame Sea Cloud for her lack of talent and do applaud its efforts to boost its culinary scene. (Michelin star Chef Michael Collantes has been announced as a guest chef for the October 5, 2024, Mediterranean sailing.)  

However, Cindy Huston and her partner, Delius Shirley – as well as their entourage of three more – have pranced around the ship as if they own it. Delius Shirley has – despite the requirement to somewhat dress; especially for dinner – only donned old and tattered shorts and t-shirts…only occasionally covering his bare feet with a pair of beat-up shoes. And she is not far behind.  They consistently raucously took over a portion of the bar, consuming, I can’t tell you how many bottles of tequila.  And their demanding treatment of the crew has been deplorable.  OK, enough! Back to the ship!

I have found that if I am one of the first off the ship my island time is peaceful and relaxing. And so it was an Isla Mogo Mogo of the Pearl Islands, Panama. I found a quiet shaded area where I just lay under some trees, watching the birds and butterflies dance in the leaves before an hour of snorkeling. The “reef” was pretty barren and the diversity of fish wasn’t great, but better than the day before. And, let’s keep it real, I was snorkeling in calm waters in 90-degree sunshine, so it was pretty darn nice.

As the other guests were now onshore in full force (there are only 100, so it wasn’t exactly crowded), I took a zodiac back to the ship for some more solitude. Yes, Sea Cloud Spirit is as relaxing, if not more so, than lying on a tropical beach!

Later that afternoon, while I was chilling out, there were a couple of afternoon talks and a piano recital before the Gala Dinner. I was so relaxed and happy – and you may recall how much I noted my preference for dining al fresco on the Lido  – that I decided to skip the Gala Dinner. I just didn’t want to get dressed up and sit in the air conditioning.   (I should note there is no set room service. I am confident I could arrange something, but the lunch buffets are so good I really wasn’t hungry.)

I was awoken around 11:00 p.m. by the sound of the anchors being dropped, and light of the outside lights came into my suite. I actually love being near the bow and hearing the sounds of the ship, so after acknowledging that something happened, I went right back to sleep until 3:00 a.m. or so when I heard the anchors being hauled and then fell back to sleep. Eventually, I was up and out on deck around 6:15 a.m. for our entrance into the Panama Canal. Previously, I had done a partial transit from the Caribbean side, so I figured I should be there for the full transit from the Pacific side.

Sea Cloud Spirit’s expert, Stephen Weston, who also offers nature and history lectures and guided snorkel tours, did an excellent job of enthusiastically explaining not only how the locks were, but the history behind them. Part of his knowledge comes from having had a part-time job working on the locks while he went to university nearby.  (There is also a German lecturer who mostly does German talks, but did give a few in English.)

The one remarkable thing is the size of the new Panama Canal compared to the original that we were transiting in. It is impressive.

Having passed through the Miraflores Lock (with a large crowd – for this ship – on deck), the Pedro Miguel Lock (with a small crowd), and the Gatun Lock (with some at lunch), it was time to head out to see for our last stop, the San Blas Islands in the Caribbean.  But before we arrived there, it was a work afternoon for me.

The seas definitely picked up but all was good…until dinner. For some reason, dinner was in the Restaurant, which is not only inside but far aft on the ship…and on a sailing vessel. This area literally hangs above the water.  This resulted in yawling as its aft end swung in the air, then slowly hit the ocean…with the Restaurant slowly empty and those who stayed not showing quite the normal vigor. For me, who has many times handled far rougher seas and made regular Drake Passage transits, I had to excuse myself from the wonderful dinner companions I was invited to dine with.

But as soon as I left the Restaurant I was perfectly fine…thankfully! Once I was back in my suite, which is as far forward as possible,  I had probably the best night of sleep with the ship rocking me into perfect slumber. 

While I was lying there, I thought about how Nicky, the young cruise director, had been doing a fantastic job. There were some guests who felt she should be more interactive, but I think they are more of a “cruise” mind than a “sailing” one. Balancing individual desires is hard, but doing it for two different cultures at the same time is even more difficult. (Remember there are yet more cultures than that onboard.)

The international crew really does a very good job, with one true standout being June, a 23-year-old South African who has a grace and style that is far beyond her years. However, especially at meal times, Sea Cloud could use a few more hands on deck, so to speak. I feel more for the crew than the guests, as they get it done, but they are working harder than they should need to.  (Maybe I am getting soft in my old age? Me, seriously?)

Our last day started out cloudy and remained so; hence a bit of a damper on things. But after a quick coffee, it was off to Wichibuala Island in the San Blas Archipelago, one of the island homes of the Kuna people.  Unfortunately, as I have found in so many poorer indigenous visits, the majority of the time was spent having tapestries and such offered up and down the few dirt paths, followed by a ritual dance.

The people overall looked at with passing eyes and no more. Other than seeing two small critically endangered hawksbill turtles being kept in small basins with an offer to photograph them for a dollar (so sad to see), it was benign enough. Our lecturer, Stephen, warned me not to say anything bad about the turtles to the people because they would banish the cruise lines from their islands. I’m not so sure that is true, but saying something wasn’t going to make a positive difference anyway.

After the hour of shopping/wandering and the dance, it was time to head back to the ship. Unfortunately, when I awoke from my nap (after working), lunch on the Lido had to be moved to the restaurant due to the weather. Somehow, the Wahoo was still delicious but not as much as if it were served in the warm, salty air.

A curious bit about donating to a Crew Welfare Fund.  While gratuities are included, Sea Cloud uses the rather old-fashioned method of placing Gratuity Envelopes on the Reception Desk for guests to place cash in to give to whomever they desire. I was told that donations to the crew fund have to be made in cash. However, I can withdraw cash from my onboard account…but there is a 3% service charge. Huh? They suggested I purchase raffle tickets for the chart used during the sailing because there is no service charge.  “OK, I buy X. Euros worth.” “Oh, we have a 200 Euro cash limit.” Huh?  Well, in the end, they waived the limit and I had a cache (get it?) of raffle tickets. (Not surprisingly, I won the chart.)

Speaking of money, again, in a more old-fashioned manner, Sea Cloud does not register a credit card at the beginning of your sailing, but rather, on the last afternoon they deliver your account to your room. You then individually go to the Reception Desk and settle your account in cash or credit.

With clouds and wind, our last stop was supposed to be good for snorkeling. I decided to just check out the island. Unfortunately, I arrived at a small, fairly dirty spit of land with a bunch of locals, a rum shack with overpriced drinks, and a strong desire to get the hell back to the ship. (Sensing a theme with me?) 

Not the best end to the sailing in one respect, but also one that could not better emphasize how much I enjoy the simplicity and solitude of Sea Cloud Spirit.

My last dinner was, again, in the Restaurant due to the weather. This time, I dined more midship and had a wonderful last meal spread over about 2.5 hours talking with a fellow photographer (he more than I) and a writer from France/French Guiana. 

Due to the seas, the captain sped up our cruise to Colon, Panama for disembarkation. While I was pining for one last night of the Sea Cloud Spirit rocking me to sleep, she was, sadly, alongside Colon at about 1:00 a.m. Oh well.

I was up early and just walked the decks one last time. Even in the ugly port of Colon, Sea Cloud Spirit remains Nautically Sexy and I didn’t want to leave.

Next up: Reflections.